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The Chin

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Defender T 
Frenchman's Cap 
Hanging High T 
Rhadamanthus T,TR 
Rhadamanthus Corner T 
Unknown  T,TR 
Warehouse Run T 
Wiessner's Rib 
Yvette T 

The Chin Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.4259, -72.8977 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,030
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: wivanoff on Feb 25, 2006  with updates from wivanoff
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Description 

The Chin is the most obvious and well known climbing area in Sleeping Giant. It has an old climbing history dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. This was the premier climbing area for local AMC and Yale Mountaineering groups for many years until the accident in 1953.

The Chin is the location of the first girdle traverse ever done in this country. It is also one of, if not the first place, that nuts were used for protection in the USA. Apparently, John Reppy brought back the new-fangled idea from a trip to the UK.

David Hurrah published the first known guidebook which was a collection of “potential” routes that he saw as he walked along the base of the Chin. I don't know the publication date but I recall seeing a mimeographed copy at the old Ski hut in New Haven in the early 1970s.

The Chin contains some enjoyable routes put up by the likes of Hassler and Roger Whitney, Fritz Wiessner, Jim Adair, John Reppy and Sam Streibert. The cliff faces east and gets great early morning sun.

Recommended routes include:
Wiessner’s Rib (5.6), Yvette (5.9), Frenchman’s Cap (5.9), Defender (5.11), Bolted (5.9), and Rhadamanthus (5.10). There is even a 600-foot right to left traverse of the cliff, The Warehouse Run (5.7), put up in 1934.

Do not trust any fixed protection here as it is probably 70 years old! Rock is very abrasive but can be loose, and poison ivy is abundant.

Approach the Chin via the main trail from the parking lot. A 10 - 15 minute hike gets you to the talus at the base of the cliff. Descend by the blue trail which runs across the top of the crag.

Getting There 

Directions to this area can be found at the state park website, dep.state.ct.us/stateparks/par...

Check the RMF website, raggedmtn.org, for more information about this crag.

Climbing Season

For the Western Coastal Slope area.

Weather station 1.8 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Chin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Chin:
Wiessner's Rib   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     , 2 pitches, 120'   
Frenchman's Cap   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     , 70'   
Yvette   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Chin

Featured Route For The Chin
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiessner's Rib

Wiessner's Rib 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : The Chin
Fritz Wiessner had a good eye for the classic climbs. The start of this climb can be found by heading straight up from the intersection of the main (Tower) trail and the white trail. After hiking up to the base of the rib, walk right and up to a ledge at the base of the route; step left to belay away from the poison ivy. On the left side of the ledge is a dihedral system. Follow this up about 25 feet to a ledge. Step right across a small slab and climb easily to an obvious dihedral. La...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

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