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Sleeping Giant State Park

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Chin, The 
Right Knee 
Tower Area 

Sleeping Giant State Park Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.42637, -72.89852 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: wivanoff on Mar 9, 2016
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Description 

Sleeping Giant is a Connecticut state park just north of New Haven, next to Quinnipiac University.

Sleeping Giant was THE climbing area in CT until an accident in 1953 closed the cliff for decades. The Giant is now back in business and offers many different areas for climbing.

The most obvious area is the "Chin" but other crags are found scattered around the park. The Tower Area (left knee just below the tower) has a number of good routes to 50' and also features a small free-standing pillar. There are many small outcrops with decent bouldering scattered throughout the park.

The park contains some enjoyable routes put up by the likes of Hassler and Roger Whitney, Fritz Wiessner, Jim Adair, John Reppy and Sam Streibert.

Do not trust any fixed protection here as it is probably 70 years old! Rock can be loose, and poison ivy is abundant.

Camping is not allowed. The park is open from 8:00 AM until sunset. Parking fees are in effect weekends and holidays from Memorial Day weekend through the end of October.

Getting There 

Located in Hamden CT. Take Route 10 to Mt. Carmel Avenue. The park entrance is on the left across from Quinnipiac University.

Directions to this area can be found at the state park website, dep.state.ct.us/stateparks/par...

A trail map can be found here: sgpa.org/colormap.pdf

Check the RMF website, raggedmtn.org, for more information about this crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',5],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sleeping Giant State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sleeping Giant State Park:
Wiessner's Rib   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     , 2 pitches, 120'   The Chin
Frenchman's Cap   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     , 70'   The Chin
Yvette   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Chin
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sleeping Giant State Park

Featured Route For Sleeping Giant State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiessner's Rib

Wiessner's Rib 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Connecticut : Western Coastal Slope : ... : The Chin
Fritz Wiessner had a good eye for the classic climbs. The start of this climb can be found by heading straight up from the intersection of the main (Tower) trail and the white trail. After hiking up to the base of the rib, walk right and up to a ledge at the base of the route; step left to belay away from the poison ivy. On the left side of the ledge is a dihedral system. Follow this up about 25 feet to a ledge. Step right across a small slab and climb easily to an obvious dihedral. La...[more]   Browse More Classics in Connecticut

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