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Sleeping boy catches no fish (direct) S 

Sleeping boy catches no fish (direct) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: P1 - Nick Monteith, P2 - Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson, Rachael Mayne, P3 - Robby McBirney & Len Gillman
Page Views: 28
Submitted By: Cameron Fraser on Feb 25, 2017

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Pitch 1 belay ledge. From here head straight up (a...

Description 

Shares the same first pitch with "Lynx effect", but the 2nd and 3rd pitches finish directly up the cliff instead of traversing right.

P1(18) - 50m
A fantastic slab line that is also the first pitch of "Lynx effect". Quite technical for the grade with less than positive slopey holds, so you have to rely on your footwork. Crux is getting to the first bolt (a little harder than 5.10a/18 in my opinion). Wonderful views and nice exposure with the valley dropping off below you. Well bolted around the hard moves, but gets quite run out in the middle when you cross some easier ground. Not a pitch to lead if you are not solid at the grade. Top out at a large ledge with bushes for a relaxed belay.

P2(21) - 15m
A short but steep pitch. Head left up blocky ground. After a couple of bolts power through the overhangs in uncharacteristically steep climbing for Castle rock. Belay on ledge above.

P3(16) - 25m

Finish up easy face/arete with great holds, great exposure and slightly less than vertical climbing.

Walk off onto the summit. From here there are walking tracks to get down.

Location 

There a currently only 2 bolted lines leaving the ground at the base of the Kookmyers. Sleeping boy/Lynx effect pitch 1 is the left most line up the slab.

Protection 

Bolts


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