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Sleeping Beauty Wall
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Sleeping Beauty 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bertrand Gramont and Don Goodhew 10/87
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 2,125
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Feb 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Linda clipping the chains while the Tower stands w...

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>


Sleeping Beauty is the steep, pocketed route just left of the obvious black streak in the Sleeping Beauty area. Scramble up the right side of the low angle ramp on unprotected but easy terrain to the first bolt. Clip it and then head up and slightly right up the overhanging face on pockets. Choosing the right pockets out of the multitude of chalked holds will be the deciding factor on whether you get the red point or not.


5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor/rap

Photos of Sleeping Beauty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect two and three-finger pocket pulling. Septe...
Perfect two and three-finger pocket pulling. Septe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy on "Sleeping Beauty."
Amy on "Sleeping Beauty."
Rock Climbing Photo: Linda W. nearing the top
Linda W. nearing the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate getting the onsight of Sleeping Beauty. Augus...
Nate getting the onsight of Sleeping Beauty. Augus...

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By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 16, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great climbing up a smooth bulge festooned with pockets...some are good and some are not! Choosing the right pockets or having the endurance to hang out and search is the key to this climb.
By jbak
Mar 23, 2006

It's a sweet little climb, but just too short for 3 stars.
By WSnyder
Mar 27, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Some of my friends and I have a saying for climbing at The Tower "Skip the crap, go big!". Meaning, make bigger moves from good holds to the next good holds and skipping the not so good. This certainly applies to this route and is a good rule of thumb to keep in mind for the whole area.
By Andrew Schmalzer
Sep 13, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I was on this route today, and while clipping off of the jug below the last bolt, I heard the hold crack. Be careful on this one.

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