|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||MJM & RAMM, 2/2015|
|Submitted By:||MJM on Feb 21, 2015|
|Comments on Sleeper||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The climbing on this is really fun - steep with big holds - like you would find in the climbing gym.
However, this route has more suspect rock than any other climb I have done at Shelf Road.
A 20 foot "pillar" of rock starts at the 4th bolt. It consists of a bunch of various sized blocks stacked on top of each other. Also, there are numerous smaller pieces of rock crammed along the other blocks.
The worst block is at clip 9, where the dihedral starts, with a 3' diameter block that moves if you barely touch it.
The stance at the top is awkward and somewhat hanging.
Be very careful if you climb this, and I would have the belayer stand off to the side. Definitely don't have a group standing around the base.