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Carpet Path T 
Sleep in the Dry Spot T 

Sleep in the Dry Spot 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Alan Pilgrim, Chris Marks, and Pete Henden
Page Views: 860
Submitted By: Peter Jackson on Jul 10, 2011

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Start of Sleep in the Dry Spot

Route info 

When I submitted this project to the database, I didn't get the screen to fill in a description!

This route starts near the end of the Grunge Wall and climbs a clean, grey-ish section of chunky rock. The holds are fantastic, and worth climbing just to experience them.

The pro is a rack of nuts and cams up to a #.75 Camelot. The first available pro is about 15' from the deck: there's a through-flake you can thread. Climb past this and several other interesting holds (don't miss the suitcase handle) to a solid two bolt anchor.

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By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Ah...Two natural threads, one is the first pro just to the right of the old bolt remnant, the 2nd further up and easier to "find".
By Tom Sherman
From: Bristol, RI
Oct 13, 2015

I didn't think the gear was that great for this. The book calls Carpet Path "a good beginner lead" and says for this one "Gear is reasonable". I think both of those are overstated. So that either says something about me or about the book.

The first thread is high, and it sucks. That flake sounds terrible and I don't believe it would hold a fall. Luckily the next piece of gear is only another 5' further. I was able to sew this climb up, but with many questionable pieces in-between good placements. 9-pieces and 2-threads in 75' of climbing. Also I used up to (2) #2's. One (of these #2's) was a good placement, and another one was like a wet sock in a pile of dirt.

That being said I liked the climb. The top was wet, wasn't an issue though.
By Ken Hamel
From: Bristol, RI
Jul 8, 2017

Tom, Tom, Tom... : )
Lead this/climbed this for the first time today. The first piece was a little run out from the ground, but even though it felt like I was running out certain sections, in retrospect(looking down from the bolts) it was quite well, and evenly, sewn up on gear.

Fun climb, I think it would be good for a newer climber, maybe not the absolute beginner climber.

I would not/did not trust either natural thread. Both sounded wrong, and I ended up pushing on them not pulling.

Similarly, the top/last part below the little roof was wet, but it was easy to stay clear of it/climb around it.

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