|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]|
|FA:||Gary Slate (solo)|
|Submitted By:||Chris Owen on Apr 14, 2008|
|Comments on Slate Route||Add Comment|
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By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 5, 2011
|In the most recent Bishop Area guidebook, Marty lists the route as Hueco Thanks, FA John Tuttle and Alan Hirahara in the 90's. Did Gary solo this line first?|
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jul 26, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
All I can add to this is apologies to Gary Slate if in fact we (Alan and I) bolted a bold solo. There were no signs or documentation of a prior ascent at the time and we cleaned some loose rock.
I am pretty sure I was in good shape when Alan and I did the route ground up bolting (solid 5.10), not sure if we used aid (hook) or not for the second bolt on overhanging ground. Then the route goes up and left to a little rib of patina plates and scoops....some incredibly scary slab (5.9) at the top if free solo, nothing that a solid climber should mind with our bolts for pro. Pretty sure anyone soloing the slab would wonder about their judgement at the top :).
We approached the upper headwall from the far left. There is a 5.6/5.7 move around a corner to gain the upper slab above the other routes. If you pro this, then you belay at the base of the upper section (2 bolts). If you solo it, just flip your rope over so that it runs well to the double bolts and start the next bit.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 26, 2016
|I'm no historian for this area - I think I got the info from the old Sierra Eastside Guide? So I could be wrong.|