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Slate Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Gary Slate (solo)
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Apr 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Heading up the huecos - photo by S.Nomi.

Description 

Solo up to the ledge beneath the heavily pocketed wall - weird and scary (R).

Two bolt anchor for belay.

Launch up the overhang and wall above (crux) to the slabby last section.

Basically a two-pitch climb. Rappel down from the climb to the two-bolt anchor, then a short rappel back to the ground.

Location 

The big pocketed wall.

Protection 

Seven bolts, two bolt and sling anchor.


Photos of Slate Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony at the top with the Moon. Photo by Scott Nomi...
Tony at the top with the Moon. Photo by Scott Nomi...

Comments on Slate Route Add Comment
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By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 5, 2011

In the most recent Bishop Area guidebook, Marty lists the route as Hueco Thanks, FA John Tuttle and Alan Hirahara in the 90's. Did Gary solo this line first?
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jul 26, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

All I can add to this is apologies to Gary Slate if in fact we (Alan and I) bolted a bold solo. There were no signs or documentation of a prior ascent at the time and we cleaned some loose rock.

I am pretty sure I was in good shape when Alan and I did the route ground up bolting (solid 5.10), not sure if we used aid (hook) or not for the second bolt on overhanging ground. Then the route goes up and left to a little rib of patina plates and scoops....some incredibly scary slab (5.9) at the top if free solo, nothing that a solid climber should mind with our bolts for pro. Pretty sure anyone soloing the slab would wonder about their judgement at the top :).

We approached the upper headwall from the far left. There is a 5.6/5.7 move around a corner to gain the upper slab above the other routes. If you pro this, then you belay at the base of the upper section (2 bolts). If you solo it, just flip your rope over so that it runs well to the double bolts and start the next bit.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 26, 2016

I'm no historian for this area - I think I got the info from the old Sierra Eastside Guide? So I could be wrong.

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