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Slapjack 

Slapjack 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A R

   
Type:  Boulder, Alpine, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A R [details]
FA: -bp
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Bill Patton 1 on Oct 7, 2015

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Chalk on the sit start of slapjack.

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Description 

This is an interesting line that runs up the arete just to the right of penumbra. The sit start is hard enough to be interesting. After gaining the obvious jug hold on the arete you can either mantle and step up and right or continue up the arete. The step up and right continues to the top on lower angle but balancy VERY high moves. This is the only line I've topped out. The proud line follows the arete all the way to the top - which can be top roped (hard - 5.12?) but can't be exited due to massive vegetation.

Location 

bat cave boulder to the right of penumbra

Protection 

pad at the bottom and then gravitron to avoid falling from the higher slab.


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By Bill Patton 1
From: Underhill
Oct 7, 2015

This was one of my not so secret summer projects. I had been carefully cleaning off the chalk from my go's trying to sort out the ethics of digging/cleaning the top in order to make the arete problem go all the way to the top. Saw a ton (ton!) of chalk on the sit start - clear that a posse had started working the line so I figure I best publish. The actual arete line is pretty awesome - I've rope solo'd but couldn't find a safe way to exit the top - the rope let me simply lower back down. The high ball slab finish to the right of the arete is scary (for me anyway) and lets you finish at the top without digging. Will be interesting to see how this problem develops. Enjoy.

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