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(2) Hanging Gardens
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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Tim Olson, Cindy Long-92
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Adam Therneau on Jul 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Slapfest is an excellent and very unusual climb to be found at Broughton Bluff. It offers a superb blend of technical arete climbing down low and burly sloper squeezing up high leading to the crux exit onto the ledge at forty feet. The first 15 feet ascend a thin crack with gear for pro to reach the top of a pillar where the climbing really starts. The clips on this route are difficult and you must be careful not to blow them or you'll risk decking on the pillar. Once the ledge is reached, continue through easier terrain to the anchors atop the second pitch of Loose Block Overhang.


Starts atop the pillar just right of Loose Block Overhang.


Small gear down low, bolts for the rest.

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By Adam Therneau
Jul 5, 2007

Well, I got to test my theory about decking if you blow the clip this morning and sure enough, deck I did. Not much fun, I'm gonna be limping for a little while and I landed fairly well considering. That second clip is incredibly dicey, so I think I'm gonna be using double ropes next time.
By orclimber
From: Portland, OR
Jan 31, 2009

We did it with bouldering pads on top of that pillar and it was still scary. Fortunately, we didn't have to test the decking possibility. This climb seems better in cool weather, since the feet are so technical.
By Detchy
From: Portland, OR
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13

What a cool little climb!

From the crack, venture out onto the smooth face through gastons and side-pulls, while standing on a grippy sloping ripple for feet, follow it up with some body tension moves and an awesome sequence of crux slopers that feel like Montana granite. It gets heady from the second to third bolt due to the flat-topped pillar 15 feet below you, so don't blow the clip.

PS: Watch out for the giant Poison Oak bush growing out of the cliff, directly right of the crux zone.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 27, 2015

Would this route be safer with a pre-hung draw on the 3rd bolt?
By another Chad
Oct 16, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13

No, not really. I thought the clips were relatively easy. Not falling between them, well....

Using a single carabiner on the second bolt is a good idea.

Adam, I am so confused. There's a jug sidepull in the left crack one can use to clip the second bolt with.


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