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Unsorted Routes:

Slap Happy 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Schmeer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,559
Submitted By: AOSR on Mar 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Dakota slapping....


There are no face holds to be found as you throw your way up this column.... Gaining the ledge after the crux sequence, good features lead to a tricky move at the anchors.


This is in the center area of the wall. Climb the sand dune on a handily constructed rock staircase (thanks, Kirk and Mary!) to start up the obvious column formed by opposing aretes.


5 draws and some change for the chained anchors.

Photos of Slap Happy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready to get slappin'....
Getting ready to get slappin'....
Rock Climbing Photo: FA shot!  Photo by Kirk Miller.
FA shot! Photo by Kirk Miller.

Comments on Slap Happy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Childers
Dec 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Super fun! Wish the colum went all the way to the top!! Haha but still very interesting climbing to come above. Really liked it all around.
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 5, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A great climb with friendly handholds, that is worth repeating. When I documented this climb in my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs" (2010) I rated it 5.11d/12a. Having done it many times over the years, I think it is more 12a than .11d, unless you've got it wired. I always stick clip the 1st bolt & stick clip a medium quickdraw on the 2nd bolt. With the draw on the 2nd bolt, the clip isn't too bad. Some people stick clip the 2nd bolt which makes the climb feel a slight bit easier. The bottom 20 feet, past first 2 bolts is really cool slapping between the two aeries.

The finish is tricky & could easily blow someone's onsight attempt. Climb to good edges just above & right of the anchor bolts. Ending the climb early, by clipping the draws on the anchor, misses the finish that moves right to the arete & then up.

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