|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||AOSR on Mar 13, 2009|
|Comments on Slap Happy||Add Comment|
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By Luke Childers
Dec 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
|Super fun! Wish the colum went all the way to the top!! Haha but still very interesting climbing to come above. Really liked it all around.|
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 5, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A great climb with friendly handholds, that is worth repeating. When I documented this climb in my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs" (2010) I rated it 5.11d/12a. Having done it many times over the years, I think it is more 12a than .11d, unless you've got it wired. I always stick clip the 1st bolt & stick clip a medium quickdraw on the 2nd bolt. With the draw on the 2nd bolt, the clip isn't too bad. Some people stick clip the 2nd bolt which makes the climb feel a slight bit easier. The bottom 20 feet, past first 2 bolts is really cool slapping between the two aeries.
The finish is tricky & could easily blow someone's onsight attempt. Climb to good edges just above & right of the anchor bolts. Ending the climb early, by clipping the draws on the anchor, misses the finish that moves right to the arete & then up.