|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 150'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Glenn Payan, Graham Rowbotham, 1995|
|Submitted By:||geoff georges on Oct 21, 2013|
|Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Slap and Tickle||Add Comment|
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By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This is an absolute classic. Start with Gonch Pull traverse out of Stephanie's Tears for a full value 50m route. I placed 19 pieces on this route, nothing larger than a #1 C4. Definitely double up on gear from 0 Master Cam to .75 C4.
The crux comes at the top, but the climbing is fairly relentless although there are a lot of good rests.
The top traverse is indeed tricky. However, I found the protection to be super solid and not run-out at all. This doesn't make the move any less exciting though. I tried multiple times to climb to the top of the flake then step right, but...