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Slam Dance 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,619
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Jan 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Photo: Tyler Casey


Climb the awesome 20 foot dihedral handcrack to a ledge. There, turn around and climb up into and through the squeeze chimney. Belay on trees above. Awesome rock.

You can also continue up and right instead of turning around at the ledge, but it's a little chossy and not as fun, in my opinion.


At the far left end of the Reality Wall, hike to the back of the cave on the right side of the thumb. Start in the handcrack in the right corner.


Gear to 3.5". Rap off trees into the chimney or hike to a walkdown.

Photos of Slam Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike scoping Slam Dance.
Mike scoping Slam Dance.
Rock Climbing Photo: Working my way up slam dance
Working my way up slam dance
Rock Climbing Photo: Checking out the route
Checking out the route

Comments on Slam Dance Add Comment
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By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 9, 2013

You really don't want to rap back down the route. Leave your packs on the outside of the cave, climb the route, and then rap from the big pine which is left of Arkansas Reality. This way you don't have to scramble back up in the cave when your'e done. A headlamp might be a good idea to have on this climb also. There maybe some loose rock in the chimney section so the belayer might think about wearing a helmet.
By Josh Aleckson
Mar 7, 2014

I'm looking into bringing a group of beginners out here for most of their first times climbing. I was just going to set up a toprope and hopefully get them on a fairly long, fairly easy route. Would this be a good one for that?
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 25, 2014

No. Not a good route to set a toprope on.
By Tom Pittman
From: Juneau, AK
Sep 20, 2015

My partner and I left our packs at the top of the wall racked up and then took the class 4 scramble down to the route. The crack is cuped hands. The transition move from the ledge after the crack into the chimney is amazing, gymnastic and not straight forward. This route is an absurd adventure.
By JD Borgeson
Apr 11, 2017

You can get to the anchors of 'sliders' pretty easily after topping this thing out, and you don't have to rap from a tree.

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