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Medlicott Dome, Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
15 Minutes of Fame S 
Bachar-Yerian T 
Big Time S 
Ciebola T 
Coming, The T 
Deflector T 
Going, The TR 
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 S 
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2 S 
Shard T 
Shiner S 
Shipoopi! S 
Slacker/Carrion T 
Techno Tango T 
You Asked For It T 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes, Brian Bennett, 8/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Jul 8, 2013

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Ryan flashing crux.....

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  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Fun crack/lieback (right start of The Coming) to sustained crux thin face. First pitch is a great cragging route and very tightly bolted in crux area. Upper pitches have no fixed anchors, great knobs, low angle knobby slab, and an airy but easy roof. 5.11a, 5.9, 5.7, 5.9, 5.2


    Start up the right (5.10a) start of The Coming, then continue straight up the face to a shallow left-facing corner (crux) and a bolted anchor at 110' (70m rope to lower). Pitch 2 follows bolts up the knobby face to trad anchor under a roof. Pitch 3 moves right to a bolt on the small roof, then over the roof (5.7) and up a long right-trending slab (1 more bolt, 1 thin cam if you find it) to a black belay ledge (thread sling, pro). If you move straight up and left from the 2nd bolt you may run into the single pro bolt on The Coming (if so you're too far left, move 40' right to belay). This pitch has 50' runouts on 5.6 terrain, more if you miss the thin cam. 4th pitch moves left and through the roof at the obvious flake (airy, exciting 5.9). Thin horizontal cracks on the face above for pro and an anchor (best anchor is thin finger/finger cams about 50' above the roof). Last pitch is 5.easy for a bit to 4th then 3rd class summit slabs.


    Pro to 4", doubles of thin to 1" cams. 6 bolts + bolted anchor pitch 1, 5 bolts pitch 2, 2 bolts pitch 3, none on last 2 pitches.

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    Rock Climbing Photo: Eliot Carlsen approaching the crux on Slacker/Carr...
    Eliot Carlsen approaching the crux on Slacker/Carr...

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    By Tony Lewis
    Sep 8, 2015

    Replaced all bolts with 3/8" stainless. Great fun climb. 1st pitch is continuous 5.10 with 5.11 crux. Well protected crux pitch. Great rock.