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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Chris Hassig and Mark Iber 1979
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Ryan on Slack but because of the bolts he created...


So when i started leading trad climbs i climbed every moderate trad route i could find so i could practice placing gear and get used to trusting it. Not all the routes rate high on the quality scale but i found them to be helpful. This one is actually very cool but i didn't rate it highly due to the fact that it traverses under a few popular routes and people would be likely to give you some mumbles and grumbles (if not worse) if you did it on a busy day. However if you are a practicing trad leader and find yourself all alone at this crag you might enjoy a run on this one.

Many bolts have been added since i climbed it so trad gear might not be needed at all anymore on the first pitch but i think a few hand sized cams could be helpful on the traverse crack.

Pitch 1: Climb up the start of metamorphosis which is retrobolted. Where that route goes right you want to follow a hand crack left under clusterphobia (bolts added for this route might help you a bit) follow the crack left past Armed and Dangerous to a nice ledge where you can belay. There are bolt anchors there now. Rap off or do the second pitch.

Pitch 2: Unless someone has cleaned it up, this pitch was adventurous at best. You head up and right on fun climbing to an old rap anchor which was in rough shape when i did it but that was years ago. I decided to continue up the slab above on a scary lichen adventure with little gear. This slab was not in the guide book description so i dont know the exact grade. I'd say scary 5.7.

Again it has been a while since I've been up there so i dont know if it has been cleaned or bolted or what. If anyone knows the current state of this section of cliff please comment and i will update this info.


Start up Metamorphosis then break left under Clusterphobia and Armed and Dangerous


lots of bolts these days but a few hand sized cams might help the unsteady leader... if you do the second pitch small nuts and cams will be handy...

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 18, 2007

Yup, the mid belay ledge now has a bolted anchor. The second pitch is still adventure land.
By Tristan Perry
Oct 11, 2007

May the second pitch forever remain adventureland.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Nov 26, 2007

The second pitch may get an anchor so people don't have to disturb the top of the cliff, but it looks to me to be a nice easy trad route with lots of options for gear. It could use a once over though for loose stuff, so be careful, especially as many people hang out below.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 28, 2007

i think it may have been a little poor route finding on my part that made the top pitch scary but i wouldn't trade that experience for a comfortable one...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 20, 2009

Is the mid belay ledge located above the anchors for Cereal Killer? Or am I getting disoriented :(
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 20, 2009

i think that sounds about right jeffery...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 24, 2010

did the second pitch get an anchor yet?
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 24, 2010

I don't think so
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Oct 20, 2015

I won't rate this route...maybe I did it wrong(?) but, using Beta from someone who'd done the route before and was very familiar with the area, I moved out left from the corner on an obvious traverse line of footholds, hands being a few feet (6-8ft ??) below what looks to be the higher undercling. The first step seemed too committing (and thin) for a 5.5 (e.g. compared to 5.5 traverses such as Pony Express at the Gunks. It compared more to the (5.7) traverse out from the Updraft corner to CCK, when CCK is done that way.) plus the fall back into the corner was, shall we say, un-inviting...sure to "hurt"!
This traverse line also brings you to a point where you do the last few moves of a climb to the left (Scene of the Crime???, up past its anchors) which, although juggy, started off with what seemed a 5.6-5.7 move.
Feeling I might have been having an "off" day, I later climbed one of the more "standard" 5.7's and it felt "just right" at the grade.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
May 14, 2017

Speaking only of the first pitch, it would definitely be a moderate classic if it was located on it's own in a trad area instead of overlapping with three of the most popular sport routes at Rumney. If you find a quiet day to do this route, you'll find that it is excellent climbing with great gear. A good route for a new-ish trad leader (Remember to use extendable draws!) since from most positions on the climb they could clip a bolt if they got sketched.

I climbed Metamorphosis until the diagonal crack, skipping the bolts in lieu of the many great places to put gear. I then followed the crack all the way to its left end using an excessive amount of handjams, until I was directly above the cereal killer anchors, then broke right, finding another gear placement above the roof and used the Clusterphobia anchors - this anchor left the rope in a very good position to avoid wear and drag when lowering and TRing your second.

Plenty of ways to wake it work I'm sure, but for a newer leader two #2 cams will make protecting the diagonal crack thoughtless.

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