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another shot of lee rappeling :)
Another smooth and pretty slab climb. A great option if Sliding Board (5.7) is looking like a traffic jam. Though it gets an R rating, most of the harder moves are well protected. The scary part is over right away. This is a very worth while climb if you like slabs and don't mind running it out a little.
Pitch 0: Not normally listed as a pitch but more of an approach. The route really starts at a two bolt anchor, about 250 ft up the slab, and to the left of Ninth Wave (the steep hard slab in the middle of the right side of the slabs). Gain the anchor directly from below or the easier way scrambling over from the Launch Pad. look for a cluster of brush and aim for the anchor below it.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up in to the left-facing corner (pin) a few spooky moves gain easier slab up a groove to an anchor.
Pitch 2: (5.5) Climb over a slab bulge past a bolt (the path of least resistance is not obvious) and make a long run out to an anchor to your right. [Alternate: Above the bolt, trend left and up, passing a few holes for TriCams or Camalots, to the big threaded anchor on Standard Route's arch. P3 then continues on Std Route to the lunch ledge, then take P4 as described below..)
Pitch 3: (5.4)Climb up to lunch ledge by way of slabs and staying right of standard route on the steeper sections following a white cracked section of rock (watch for loose blocks) or just go up standard route.
Pitch 4: (5.7) From Lunch Ledge, climb up and right about 20ft up to a left-slanting corner, follow this to a pin. Step right on to a slick slab and clip a (currently very old 3/8") bolt, carefully move right and up to gain a ramp, follow the ramp back left to a right facing corner, fun moves up the corner past another pin and up to a cramped belay stance (I normally continue left along the over lap and make a steep move right to gain a nice ledge with a fixed rappel sling. A more comfy belay)
watch out for rope drag on this pitch, use lots of runners.
Continue up standard route and hike off, or rap with 2 ropes along a series of bolted anchors.
If you are trying to avoid crowds on a busy day you might like to continue more directly and creativly. From the tree anchor (above pitch 4) you can look up to see an overlap, you can pull the fist and hand crack at a reasonable grade 5.7? maybe then work your way up the slabs above however you can. if you choose this option you are in adventure land so plan on running it out and breaking it in to a couple pitches.
To the right of Standard Route (5.5), look for the left-facing corner (near a small tree) with a bolted anchor below it.
Climb straight up mostly unprotected but moderate slab for 200 feet to the first anchor, or from the launch pad head up and right.
Standard Whitehorse rack to #3 Camalot, bring some tri cams.
BETA PHOTO: Climbing some slab at whitehorse with AK-47
lee rappeling off slabs direct
From: Bear Creek, CO
Oct 30, 2007
This is a great route. Easy to link it up with Wavelength for a consistent climb. You can back up the pin on the lower crux with a #4 nut.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 2, 2009
This seems to be the most consistently dry route on the slabs in the spring, at least up to lunch ledge...
The one tricky spot is the 3rd anchor which is blocked by a small river when you are about 120ft above your last draw this can be dealt with a couple of ways... Ive done this route in the early spring the last 2 years... the first time it was a little dryer and my dad (on lead) was able to find a crossing to the anchor... the other day was wetter and i was on lead so with a 60m rope we simulclimbed about 15 feet to a good anchor spot...
so if you are chomping at the bit to get on a slab route, hit this up...
By Jake Gounaris
Feb 25, 2010
Leading this route is a lot of fun, how ever it is a little boring to second. You will want a light rack because there are only a few placements. When I climbed it, the only trad gear I needed was tri-cams and C4s. All and all a classic climb.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Re' avoiding the "river" at the end of pitch 2 (going for the 3rd belay). After climbing above the bolt on P2 I have trended left and connected with the "thread" belay on the Std. Route. There even were some holes that would take Camalot(s) or Tricams along the way (as opposed to the 100% run-out-above-the-one-[OLD]-bolt on the usual 2nd pitch ! ) I climb with a 70m, but don't remember especially being near the end, so I'd think this would work with a 60m.
Re' the bolt on the 5.7 slab of the pitch above Lunch Ledge. It's getting a bit "manky"...maybe it should get replaced? !