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Snakes Slab 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jake Tradiak, Ray Huntsinger 1989
Page Views: 6,411
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Glyn doing a little top-rope on the Slab. Photo b...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb up the center of the slab past five fixed anchors to a bolted belay. It looks thin but the low angle makes it possible.


    Located about 60 feet left of Baby Blue just left of a deep sandy recess. It starts behind some bushes up a large fin like protrusion. The route climbs up the slab in the middle of the fin.


    5 quickdraws

    Photos of Snakes Slab Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just warming up...
    Just warming up...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Settin up anchor getting ready to lower
    BETA PHOTO: Settin up anchor getting ready to lower
    Rock Climbing Photo: Renee on TR on Slab 5.8
    Renee on TR on Slab 5.8
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rambo leading the way up the Slab.   photo by Andy...
    Rambo leading the way up the Slab. photo by Andy...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Armin defeated by The Slab.
    Armin defeated by The Slab.

    Comments on Snakes Slab Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 10, 2017
    By Skyler Penrod
    Jul 8, 2008

    This was my first lead climb. My buddies didn't know that and it was a little nerve racking, but it is a fun climb and I think not a bad intro to smearing on sandstone.
    By Jase
    From: Travelling
    Apr 10, 2010

    Great at night.
    By Cody Drool
    May 21, 2011

    Called Snake Slab in the new Moab guide [2011]. Super fun climb but strong for an 8. Pretty positive holds going to first bolt, leading to a slabby finish. Apparently I made it harder by working the side of the arrete, missing a face move that unlocked it [somewhere by the 2nd bolt]. Highish first bolt and classic sand stone moves make this a great Moab route.
    By Stan Pitcher
    From: SLC, UT
    Oct 22, 2012

    There is a good large to medium nut placement on the below and left of the first bolt. Put a long sling on it to minimize rope drag above.
    By Amir-Ch Chamanifard
    From: Moab
    Sep 25, 2013

    Pretty fun, I had a little sketchy start, but it was alright. It's a great practice for footwork.
    By ben jammin
    From: Moab, UT
    Oct 3, 2013

    I thought this was called 'Snake Slab'. Not too bad, actually.
    By engineer1984 Whicker
    From: Ogden, UT
    Oct 21, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    Really fun / aesthetic slab route to do while you're waiting on other climbs to open up in the area. Not sure why I never see anyone on it.

    I gave it an 'R' rating for the high first bolt and the back breaking boulder that you'd be falling towards if you goofed. Not sure about the nut placement as commented above, I've led this twice and any pro would be far left. However, if you're a 5.8 slab leader, look for a placement because a fall would be bad before the first bolt. There are one or two non-trivial moves near the first bolt.

    Have fun and cheers!

    By Mountain Dreamer
    From: Salt Lake City
    Feb 23, 2015

    Snake's Slab 5.8 PG
    1989 Jake Tradiak, Ray Huntsinger
    By Conor O
    From: Fort Collins, Colorado
    Jan 3, 2016
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Yea the bolts are definitely a little to spaced out to give it a PG rating. Which also makes the climb feel more exposing and more like a 5.9-.
    By Eriks Rozners
    From: Binghamton, NY
    Jun 21, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The first bolt is very high. To avoid R safety, one can place #1 and/or #2 C4 on left side in a crack. A longer runner will minimize the rope drag and keep you protected for the first bolt clip. The crux is really nice and requires some careful balance and thoughtful moves.
    By Mark Waterous
    From: Aspen, CO
    Oct 10, 2017
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    It's definitely PG13 after the first bolt and the climbing to the first bolt is juggy, but it is a little sketch nonetheless. The difficulty of this route is directly proportional to how much or little you trust your feet.

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