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Slab Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 7,937
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
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BETA PHOTO: I tried to get a good shot of the slope of the sla...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This well bolted slab route is located just to the right of the bush below Puppy Love. Pull a 5.7 move off the deck and clip the first of many closely spaced bolts. A good intro to soft sandstone fiction climbing. Rap from a two bolt anchor at 90ft to prevent deep rope groves from top ropping.

    This route used to have only 2 bolts on it.


    This well bolted slab roue is located to the right of Puppy Love and Steel your Face.


    7-8 bolts

    Photos of Slab Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Full resolution shows the bolts. The real challeng...
    BETA PHOTO: Full resolution shows the bolts. The real challeng...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Slab
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Slab Route starts just right of the bush under...
    The Slab Route starts just right of the bush under...

    Comments on Slab Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 7, 2017
    By Andy VanHouten
    From: Park City, UT
    May 11, 2009

    Wow. Every year this get's alittle worse. Decent pockets but the whole frickin' route is covered in sand...hard to use "friction" when you are standing on sand covered sandstone. Groves at the top are getting pretty sure to rap off.
    By JeffUT
    From: Roy, Utah
    May 24, 2010

    My 14 yr. old son's first lead climb. First move was the only 5.7 in my opinion, the rest was like walking up a steep ramp. Good one to train someone on, as long as you don't have to lower them off. Rapping down is highly recommended.
    By Ty Meadows
    From: Moab, UT
    Jun 30, 2010

    Good foot work. Major rope drag. Use a 70 meter.
    By Conor Raney
    From: Pinedale, WY
    Oct 31, 2010

    nice easy going route. It's relaxing and a fun warmup as well as a training route.
    By Eric Odenthal
    Jul 8, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    knot the end of your rope!
    By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Apr 29, 2013

    The route should have anchors after the third bolt. The top part of the climb is literally a walk up.
    By Toby Wehler
    From: Chicago, IL
    May 28, 2013
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    Had to skip some upper bolts due to lack of quick draws...didn't realize this route was so long looking at it from the ground. Thought it was fun though.
    By Rick Vermeil
    From: Erie, CO
    Apr 22, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I agree with Garret's comment above. Way over bolted and too long. This route is pointless after the fourth bolt. A 5.7- move to clip the first bolt then 5.5 climbing to the fourth, followed by 5.4 down to hiking as you get closer to the anchor. I stood up and walked past the last three bolts to the anchor. I liked the start of the route but its unnecessarily long. They could of used some of these bolts on some of the other very poorly bolted routes on Wall Street.
    By Ben Kulpinski
    Sep 20, 2014

    If you like climbing run out slab, with portions of hollowed sandstone then this the stuff for you... 60 meters works fine.
    By Daniel Slosky
    Nov 12, 2014

    Long, and not super fun, friction climb. A 60 meter rope worked fine for us too.
    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    Jan 29, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    An excellent first lead.
    By Gavin W
    From: Surrey, BC
    May 6, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Don't top rope, please rap off the anchors; the grooves are terrible. Also, way over-bolted after the 4th bolt. Definitely harder than a 5.7 at the start (the holds are getting worn down, the friction stuff is really sandy, and I climbed in the sun, which may have made things more difficult). Fun mantle-y moves through the crux though. A nearby group lent us a boulder pad for the lead, which was definitely useful. Thanks!
    By Mathias
    From: Loveland, CO
    May 24, 2015

    I felt the start of this was harder than a 5.7. I didn't check the grade til after we climbed it, but I thought it was probably an .8 or a soft .9 based on some of the other adjacent routes. Though it does ease up substantially after the second bolt.
    By John Stilley
    From: California
    Jun 7, 2017
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    A comfortable, fun beginner lead. Gets much easier as you get higher on the route. Nice and tall, too.

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