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Slab-O-Rama 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: E.Stefke
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: old5ten on Sep 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Slab Master Darrell Hensel floating the crux on th...

Description 

Start in the pod, then go up and slightly left to a thin, sloping stance. Pass the prominent orange spot, continue up a shallow groove toward the roof. Pass the roof on the right side (big holds), then angle up and left through the crux section (sustained steep slab/thin face for the next four bolts). Surmount the roof in the middle (5.7+), then head slightly left and up to a good ledge and mussy anchor.

This is a full 200'+ pitch! 12 bolts, optional (recommended) thin gear (green/gray aliens) for 2nd horizontal/shallow crack on upper slab. A bit longer and much more sustained than Silver Streak. Fairly tightly bolted at the crux sections, but a bit R on easier terrain.

70m rope and descend via rappel to anchor for 'Too Many Rules.'

Location 

Look for a gold streak/shallow pod and orange patch, roughly 50' uphill from the start of JFMB, just right of 'Too Many Rules' (which has black bolts).

Protection 

12 draws, optional (recommended) cams (green/gray alien size); mussy anchors; single 70m rope; 2 rappels (via 'Too Many Rules')


Photos of Slab-O-Rama Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slab-O-Rama - approx. location of bolts and nearby...
BETA PHOTO: Slab-O-Rama - approx. location of bolts and nearby...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fancy footwork on Slab-O-Rama...
Fancy footwork on Slab-O-Rama...

Comments on Slab-O-Rama Add Comment
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By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 16, 2016

Fun route. Last bolt was a bit high. Why smear 2" above a great foothold to clip?
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Apr 24, 2016

yeah, one of my favorite routes in terms of what i've put up. agreed, that last bolt is a couple inches high for a super easy clip (unless you're tai), but you should have a solid cam just below your feet and the climbing there is low key (relative to the moves lower down).

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