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Slab Happy Pinnacle
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Slab Happy Pinnacle Left 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA Mark Chapman and Art Higbee 2/74
Page Views: 1,063
Submitted By: Alexey on Jun 6, 2010

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Dmitry starting the 2nd pitch. Double roof, double...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Amazing quality , very physical route, one of the best at this grade I climbed in the Valley. Route has no bolts at all ( one pin at top of p2)
P1. Varied chimney with a lot of possibility of thin, medium and large pro in the corner. Belay just below the first roof.140 feet 5.8 sustain.

P2. Double Crack in the roof.The roof consists of two waves. Both climbed mostly as chimneys with many pro possibilities in the cracks. Try to sling pro wisely - otherwise you'll have ugly rope drug in the end of the pitch(I had).The chimney size is good-is not too tight, but not split you out. You turned main roof at 10+, but it is not over. 15 feet up is real crux when chimney disappears and you climbing short but difficult section of flared fingers. Safe #4 cam for last 20 feet of 5.9 OW and blue camelot for Belay in the wide alcove .140 feet, 5.11-Remarkable pitch.

P 3.Another great pitch started with 15 feet roof / chimney. Turning the lip of the roof with dip wide hands - powerful 10d .
Sustain and good to the top of the Pinnacle. 130 feet 10d

Protection 

Double from Green Aliens o Yellow Cam
Single #3, #4 Cam and #4 Friend.
Rappel with two 60m ropes. Intermediate rap anchor is bad and scary, consists of 3 relicts , need to be replaced ( I was not aware and we did not have bolt kit)


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By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Feb 2, 2015

Very physical from start to finish. Get ready
to chimney a bit.
We found brand new rap bolts on the face.
2 60 m ropes required to get down.

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