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Routes in Cedar Park Slab
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Dags in Beanland T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slab Ants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Whetstone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,797 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Matz on Oct 27, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
As you come to the slab, start heading more left (solo) a class 4 scramble to the trees above, and start your first pitch here. Place pro when you can, mostly easy face climbing to an obvious, single tree 50m up.
P2 following a series of cracks. Bring extra slings to reduce drag. Climb over the cracks and to the big chockstone just under a little dihedral. 40m.
With a solid anchor P3 is the crux. Start with small pro, and follow the cracks, use some nuts on the runout sections, but make your way up thin cracks to the top just under the roof on the left side.
P2 following a series of cracks. Bring extra slings to reduce drag. Climb over the cracks and to the big chockstone just under a little dihedral. 40m.
With a solid anchor P3 is the crux. Start with small pro, and follow the cracks, use some nuts on the runout sections, but make your way up thin cracks to the top just under the roof on the left side.
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