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A Question of Balance S 
Banana Peel T 
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Dances with Pigs S 
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 
Sickle T 
Slab Alley T,S 
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White Lightning T 

Slab Alley 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Baldwin, Tony Cousins 1961
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: Aaron Nash on Sep 4, 2013

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looking down the elephant steps, 1 bolt, 1 cam in ...

Description 

Begin as per the 5.6 traverse to Banana Peel, but keep going until you see the two bolt anchor.

From here, climb up to where the slab bulges, clip three bolts and find the next anchor to the right. (5.9)

From this belay, climb left, clipping a bolt, towards a deep water runnel. Follow up the runnel until you reach a tree to belay at.

From the tree belay, continue up more slab and runnels, clipping a few bolts along the way to a bolted anchor.

Last pitch; run it straight to the trees below Boomstick Crack. A few bolts for protection.

Descent: Walk off via the Broadway Ledge descent trail, or continue climbing on routes on the upper apron to the buttress.

Location 

Climbers right of Banana Peel.

Protection 

No more than 6 bolts per pitch. Take some bigger gear (3,4) for the traverse over on the first pitch if you're uncomfortable.


Photos of Slab Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica coming up the 2nd ( original start ) pitch...
Jessica coming up the 2nd ( original start ) pitch...

Comments on Slab Alley Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think it's worth noting that the original start is way over to the right and way below the Dierde ledge. It fell out of favor for being overgrown but has been cleaned and has 2 good pitches of climbing getting up to the horizontal crack of Banana Peel.If you skip these you are missing 2 of the best pitches other then the elephant steps which is a cool feature.
Some very interesting reading here: squamishclimbing.com/squamish_...
By Serge Smirnov
Aug 7, 2016

A fast route - most of the climbing is 5- with protection spaced 20-30 meters, a lot of it is walking.

The start described on this page (traverse right from Diedre) appears to be blocked by a tree.

The original start (described in Bourdon - via 3 wooden powerline poles) really is clean, and those first 2 pitches are arguably the most interesting climbing on the route.

P1 (original start) has one 5.8 move - getting to the bolt. The bolt appears better placed for protecting the 2nd than the leader, though the leader has some protection from a previous piece.

P2 (original start) has a 5.9 slab move protected by a bolt at knee level.

The rest is mostly walking / waiting for your belayer to subdue the rope.

A 2" cam (or larger) is useful for protecting P1. P2 can easily use doubles in finger-sized cams. Somewhere on one of the last 4 pitches I placed a medium cam. No pitch had more than 5 bolts IIRC.