|Type:||Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 1000'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jim Baldwin, Tony Cousins 1961|
|Submitted By:||Aaron Nash on Sep 4, 2013|
|Comments on Slab Alley||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I think it's worth noting that the original start is way over to the right and way below the Dierde ledge. It fell out of favor for being overgrown but has been cleaned and has 2 good pitches of climbing getting up to the horizontal crack of Banana Peel.If you skip these you are missing 2 of the best pitches other then the elephant steps which is a cool feature.
Some very interesting reading here: squamishclimbing.com/squamish_...
By Serge Smirnov
Aug 7, 2016
A fast route - most of the climbing is 5- with protection spaced 20-30 meters, a lot of it is walking.
The start described on this page (traverse right from Diedre) appears to be blocked by a tree.
The original start (described in Bourdon - via 3 wooden powerline poles) really is clean, and those first 2 pitches are arguably the most interesting climbing on the route.
P1 (original start) has one 5.8 move - getting to the bolt. The bolt appears better placed for protecting the 2nd than the leader, though the leader has some protection from a previous piece.
P2 (original start) has a 5.9 slab move protected by a bolt at knee level.
The rest is mostly walking / waiting for your belayer to subdue the rope.
A 2" cam (or larger) is useful for protecting P1. P2 can easily use doubles in finger-sized cams. Somewhere on one of the last 4 pitches I placed a medium cam. No pitch had more than 5 bolts IIRC.