REI Community
The Apron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Question of Balance S 
Banana Peel T 
Boomstick Crack T 
Bottom Line, The T 
Calculus Crack T 
Calculus Direct T 
Crack Slabbeth T 
Crossing, The S 
Dances with Pigs S 
Dancing in the Light T 
Dessert Dike T,S 
Diamondback T 
Diedre T 
Dream Symphony T 
Edge of Anxiety T 
Form S 
Granville Street T 
Great Arch, The S 
Karen's Math T 
Long Time No See T 
Memorial Crack T 
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 
Over The Rainbow T,S 
Pineapple Peel T 
Rambles T 
Rock On T 
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 
Sickle T 
Slab Alley T 
Snake T 
South Arete T 
Sparrow T 
St. Vitus' Dance T 
Start From Scratch T 
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 
Unfinished Symphony T,S 
Vector T 
Voodoo Amour T 
Whirlwind T 
White Lightning T 

Slab Alley 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Baldwin, Tony Cousins 1961
Page Views: 1,525
Submitted By: Aaron Nash on Sep 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
looking down the elephant steps, 1 bolt, 1 cam in ...


Begin from below the trail that leads up to the start of Diedre and others, or begin as per the 5.6 traverse to Banana Peel, but keep going until you see the two bolt anchor.

From here, climb up to where the slab bulges, clip three bolts and find the next anchor to the right. (5.9)

From this belay, climb left, clipping a bolt, towards a deep water runnel. Follow up the runnel until you reach a tree to belay at.

From the tree belay, continue up more slab and runnels, clipping a few bolts along the way to a bolted anchor.

Last pitch; run it straight to the trees below Boomstick Crack. A few bolts for protection.

Descent: Walk off via the Broadway Ledge descent trail, or continue climbing on routes on the upper apron to the buttress.


Climbers right of Banana Peel.


No more than 6 bolts per pitch. Take some bigger gear (3,4) for the traverse over on the first pitch if you're uncomfortable.

Photos of Slab Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica coming up the 2nd ( original start ) pitch...
Jessica coming up the 2nd ( original start ) pitch...

Comments on Slab Alley Add Comment
Show which comments
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think it's worth noting that the original start is way over to the right and way below the Dierde ledge. It fell out of favor for being overgrown but has been cleaned and has 2 good pitches of climbing getting up to the horizontal crack of Banana Peel.If you skip these you are missing 2 of the best pitches other then the elephant steps which is a cool feature.
Some very interesting reading here:
By Serge Smirnov
Aug 7, 2016

A fast route - most of the climbing is 5- with protection spaced 20-30 meters, a lot of it is walking.

The start described on this page (traverse right from Diedre) appears to be blocked by a tree.

The original start (described in Bourdon - via 3 wooden powerline poles) really is clean, and those first 2 pitches are arguably the most interesting climbing on the route.

P1 (original start) has one 5.8 move - getting to the bolt. The bolt appears better placed for protecting the 2nd than the leader, though the leader has some protection from a previous piece.

P2 (original start) has a 5.9 slab move protected by a bolt at knee level.

The rest is mostly walking / waiting for your belayer to subdue the rope.

A 2" cam (or larger) is useful for protecting P1. P2 can easily use doubles in finger-sized cams. Somewhere on one of the last 4 pitches I placed a medium cam. No pitch had more than 5 bolts IIRC.
By Anders Ourom
Jan 8, 2017

As Serge notes below, the route description is inaccurate. Slab Alley has an independent start, and finish - so allowing one to avoid herds elsewhere. See the description in Squamish Select (2012 - page 157) for details. It would also not be accurate to use the word "sport" (as in "sport climbing") in relation to this climb.

Also, on the fourth pitch, the traverse above the elephant steps, one can either go up the 'steps' once reached, or continue up and left for a few more metres to a moderate crack that leads up and right, to the top of the 'steps'.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About