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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Bradley White August 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 6, 2012

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Furthest right water coarse up steep rock 4th class 40ft. Above steep open book always wet. Detour up right to the ledge. Put rock shoes on and climb up going left on rock horns. For feet leaves and rock ends at large chock stone above. This is the lucky break to get out of here. Crux arm cam crack on the right side of this stone over a shallow ceiling. Good climbing in a bad place. Above this an awesome rock a giant rectangular horn suspended and solid. Thirty ft above. Above this horn is a large pine tree. That's the target. Stopping here the climb isn't bad. Tree is good for rappelling. Above tree move left on slab until ridge can be found (rope optional). Go up ridge until it ends. Move left and right. Now go left a lot over boulders until large opening to slab above is reached. Go up slab directly to the summit.


Furthest east water coarse at the ledges. Got some wafer stones stuck in cliff base.


2-3.5 cam or hex. Slings. Crux is protected. Trees for rappel. Free soloed it

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