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Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Center Cliff Rap Line" T 
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T 
Bad Dogs T 
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R)  T 
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 
Green Mile , The T 
Green Mile Direct Start T 
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers  T 
North (right) End Descent Gully T 
Rock Candy T 
Saber T 
Scepter  T 
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 
South (Left) Descent Gully T 
Steve's Twilight T 
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)  T 
Unknown 1 - on "Saber Slab" T 
Unknown 2 - on "Saber Slab" T 

Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Kirt Winkler, Karen Moffat, Alain & Janot Comeau
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Top P's of Bad Dogs to Life By the Numbers

Description 

3 Stars if TR-ing the last pitch, or if you're totally solid at 5.10 and up.

Looking at the cliff from Rt 302, this climb climbs the skyline! The leader of the FA of Bad Dogs said that P1 of Skyline stayed on the crack/slab system slightly right of Bad Dogs, keeping to the skyline. (DUH!)

START: From the height-of-land (at Suzy Q) drop down the steep path to the base of a mini-buttress. (photo) This is about 30 ft below Suzy Q and 25-30 ft left of the 5-bolt line of Bolt in the Sky.

P1 - Climb the slab/ mini buttress easily for 20 ft to a surprisingly hard, unprotected move over a small overlap (5.6 - 5.7), at which point you are level with the start of Bad Dogs. From here I'm hazy, but stay right of Bad Dogs and close to the edge of the vegetated corner system. Gain the ledge and thread-belay mentioned in Bad Dogs. [I've always taken Bad Dogs] About 130 ft 5.7-5.8??

P2 - From the ledge, start up the shallow corner that arches right, but then traverse right to a small crack with an old piton. Continue moving right to a rounded slab and then directly up this. [Once leaving the pin there are probably 5 or 6 consecutive 5.8+ to 5.9 moves with "lots of "R"", as a leader falling would probably end up on the other side of the huge corner below you.] When the angle eases the grade drops and there's a 1/4" bolt. Continue through some small pine trees to a horizontal crack for a belay, or romp to the very top of the cliff. 120 ft 5.9 R / "X" ?

The final pitch of "Bolt in the Sky" arrives very close to the 5.9 section if Skyline, and every once in a while "Bolt"'s BOLT is removed, presumably by someone thinking someone else has put a bolt into "Skyline."

Protection 

P1 Std Rack....P2 2 quickdraws and lots of guts

With careful planning this pitch can be TR'd from gear anchors and a directional.


Photos of Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Mini Buttress" START for "Skyline&...
BETA PHOTO: "Mini Buttress" START for "Skyline&...

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