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Skyline Fire Dance 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 60', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: BC Haney
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: John Byrnes on Oct 3, 2015

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Description 

This is a poor, 4-pitch route that is better done in three.

Get on top of "Entrance Exam" (12a) (See F.U.C.K.) by either climbing the most disgusting rock I've ever ascended, or stick-clipping your way up (which I did).

Link the 10a pitch and 5.7 pitch and belay at the two bolt anchor atop the sketchy pillar. Bring some runners to replace the aging tat when you rappel.

Whimper your way upward on friable Goutte d'Eau features, which will snap off in your fingers and break under your feet. At least there's a calming number of bolts (10?).

The anchors are hard to see, on the slab slightly left of the climbing line and directly above a very loose bucket-sized block. Do not lower directly off this anchor if you value your rope.

Extend the anchor with long slings and you can lower to the pillar. Have your second thread the anchor and rappel back to the pillar.

You can lower your partner and then rap (70m rope) to the ground if you only have one ATC.

The final indignity is that the free-hanging rappel ends in a cluster of bushes that have burrs and stickers which end up everywhere, like in your chalk bag the next day.

Location 

It is identified as "The Playground Wall" in the guide. Find the line of bolts about 50 feet right of Sexy Beast.

Protection 

For Entrance Exam: bring safety goggles and dust mask for both climbers and a helmet for the belayer.


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