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32 - Elephant Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Despair T 
Crack of Doom T 
Crack of Redemption T 
Crashline T 
Elephant Talk S 
Elephantiasis T 
Fatal Mistake T 
Fun Terminal S 
Hairline T 
Hocus Pocus S 
Hotline T 
Hundredth Monkey, The S 
Left Guru Crack T 
Lost Error T 
Moongerms T 
Pink Dream T 
Pink Elephant T 
Plumb Line T 
Real Error T 
Reality Check T 
Right Guru Crack T 
Sky T 
Straight Error T 
Trundling Juan T 
Wicked Gravity S 
Worst Error, Left T 
Worst Error, Right T 

Sky 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dale Bard and Ron Kauk (1976)
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sky is a steep and burly lieback corner up the left side of the knobby headwall above the Worst Error. If approaching from below, it shares the same start as Hocus Pocus. Where Hocus Pocus moves out onto the arête, for Sky you will want to establish a belay on the large slanted ledge below the obvious left-facing corner. This approach from below isn’t recommended because the lead rack for Sky is quite hefty and you will need to carry it up whatever approach climb you do. If approaching from above, simply fix a rope and rap down to the ledge. The bolted anchor at the top consists of two ¼” bolts (one is missing a hanger), but you can tie your rope off to other stuff to back it up.

The corner is straightforward liebacking up the offwidth crack. The lower bulge has some footholds and is easier. Then you get a stemming rest in the more vertical section to shake out. The upper bulge is steeper and more sustained and thankfully there are two 4” bongs pounded in the crack which will supplement your rack of cams. Above the corner is a sort of loose chimney which leads to the top.

Protection 

Pro 3”-6” but mainly 3.5”-4.5”. Bring all the #4 and #5 Camalots that you and your friends own. It’s a lieback so you can’t just walk your cams up with you like most offwidths.


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