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Sky Top / Smurf Bowl
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Sky Top Buttress S 

Sky Top Buttress 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Magic Ed & Ismael Garza
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: Jonathan Steitzer on Mar 7, 2013

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Description 

3 pitches, they go 5.7, 5.8, 5.9. The second pitch is more sustained tho than the third. Head up and to the right from the belay on the third pitch for a harder variation.

This route gives you access to the Smurf Bowl

Lots of loose rock on the 3rd pitch.

Location 

Go up the stairs at the pools to the scree slope, then up the slope to the base of the cliff and to the right.

This climb is located on the north side of the 3rd plancha.

Protection 

Sport. There are some fixed draws that you'll want to use for directionals on the rappel, and also for pulling your rope to keep it out of the dirt.


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By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Mar 20, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route, all pitches seemed stiff for the grade, and there were some exposed, committing moves on P2 and P3! The approach is tedious, and probably more dangerous than the climb, but you'll probably have the route to yourself.

The bolts for the P2 belay anchor are spread pretty far apart, so bring a cordelette or extra slings and lockers, unless you want to do a hanging belay.

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