Variation to pitch 1 of Science Friction Wall and alternate to pitch 1 of The Last Unicorn. Start at two bolt anchor between the two routes mentioned and up steep wall past two bolts.
Up and trend right to join The Last Unicorn, you'll finish up steep headwall with bolts then heading right into an overlap, anchor is two bolts (can backup with gear) top of pitch 2 of Last Unicorn.
I've never gone this way, but up and left to join Science Friction Wall.
Route starts right of Wonder Wall tree ledge at two bolt anchor. Take South Buttress trail to bottom area of Inferno Wall, up 4th class ledge/gully to Wonder Wall tree ledge, across this, down short chimney, and easy 5th class to anchor. The best guide to Whitehorse is the "Whitehorse Ledge Rock Climbing Super-Topo" by S. Peter Lewis, see tmcbooks.com
Rappel back to anchor area and reverse approach.
Bolts (some older) and standard rack, a little runout in spots.
Baldy following Sky Streak
From: Wakefield, RI
Jun 10, 2016
Great route. Some bolts are a little old and rusty, some are in great shape. The movement was great fun with a stout crux right off the belay. As for rack, I only found a placement for a red c3, maybe I missed something, but i wouldnt bring a heavy rack.
By Rob Albert
Oct 11, 2016
Going left is much harder, and much more run out than joining Last Unicorn. If joining Science Friction, you definitely want gear, and you want to have a cool head. It is certainly PG13, and the gear I found was not very "confidence inspiring." All that being said - absolutely superb pitch. There is a set of newish bolts in the roof you can see from the belay ledge. I left the 2 'biners on it in case people need to rap from there - please leave them for others.