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Sky Ridge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
Season: All season
Page Views: 5,955
Submitted By: Mattyg on May 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Risa on the traversing pitch

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A proud line up the impressive NE Ridge of the Smith Rock Group, Skyridge takes a bold line on nubbins for almost 1/2 a pitch before the first bolt. Confidence and commitment is needed to get onto this climb, but the rest of the bolted first and second pitches are beautiful climbing, with a final pitch of hand traversing (gear to about 2") to finish near the top of the Smith Rock group.


From the Asterisk Pass trail, head left (south) along the western side of the ridge until you find a spot for a shakey cam placement for the belayer. Climb begins on the west side, and moves to the east side of the ridge after a couple bolts, then directly up the ridge with stunning exposure. Final pitch hand traverse can be avoided by taking the "sky dive" variation, a few moves of bolted airy 5.10 to the top.


A FEW Bolts on the first pitch, but super runout at the start, with lots of exposure on either side of Asterisk Pass. Second pitch bolted, third pitch small nuts / cams (be sure to protect for second)

Photos of Sky Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scotty G traversing the final pitch of Skyridge
Scotty G traversing the final pitch of Skyridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the traverse (pitch 3) on Sky Ridge. Ian b...
Leading the traverse (pitch 3) on Sky Ridge. Ian b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers high on Sky Ridge, about to begin the tra...
Climbers high on Sky Ridge, about to begin the tra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Running the traverse on this fine route
Running the traverse on this fine route
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning the traverse on the final pitch of Sky R...
Beginning the traverse on the final pitch of Sky R...

Comments on Sky Ridge Add Comment
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By Josh Edwards
From: Bend, Oregon
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Don't know why this route gets the R rating. No bolt spacing that you wouldn't see on any other Smith routes. Maybe PG13 for the runout and poor rock quality to the first bolt, but there's a few spots to place some good nuts so it's safe. Great climb with a even better position. Don't let the R rating deter you from getting on this.
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 17, 2014

What is the hike off or rappel beta? Would be helpful to include this kind of thing in the description...
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 22, 2014

See Wherever I May Roam description for rappel beta. To walk off, hike and scramble up weaknesses/gullies to the south eventually passing the towers of the Smith Rock Group and following a rough trail through the grass along the top of the formation in a southerly direction. When you can see a continuous slope to the west, turn right (west) and descend towards the Crooked eventually ending up on the trail that runs underneath WIMR.
By Ray Pinpillage
From: West Egg
May 25, 2014

Look at White Satin for walk off beta. There are cairns marking the trail once you climb to the top of the gully from the belay. Rap'ing down WIMR is awful, especially where there are climbers on Stained.
By patrick kadel
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Exciting climb. I think I climbed it correctly, started up the rotten arete where i placed two manky cams and then found some bolts heading right. I think the first two bolts are close together on easy rock, but then it got hard and the next bolt was up there. I wasted a lot of time looking for a 5.8 way up with no luck. I finally went up using a few thin and uncertain moves. Hardest 5.8 I've ever been on.

The hand traverse pitch was enjoyable and was a presently soft 5.7 pitch. I needed that after the first pitch.
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Sep 24, 2014

The 5.8 section of the first pitch is harder then most 5.9 at Smith Rock, it is certainly harder then Honey Pot and Phone Call From Satin, both rated 5.9.

I usually break up the first pitch at the semi-hanging belay. Before it is the unprotected 5.6 and just above it is the first bolt of the 5.8 face. Also for the runout top of the the 5.8 one or two cam in the .75 and 1 Camalot size can be useful.
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Apr 23, 2016

Make sure you stay on the right side (West) of the wall, if not you'll end up like me and doing the second pitch of Hawks Nest (10c).
By Frank F
From: Bend, OR
Aug 31, 2016

I think the 10c line that Crushin' referred to is actually Risky Pass. His point about staying on the west side is correct.

There are now more bolts on the top half of the 5.8 pitch than indicated in the topos in Watts' guide book. A stopper and a #3 or 4 camalot can be placed in the lower, "unprotected" 5.6 section.

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