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Rearing stallion peak
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Sky Pilot T 

Sky Pilot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Marc Hanselman and Drew Daily 2010
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Brian B Ballard on Sep 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Sky Pilot

Description 

Sky pilot is the north arete of Rearing stallion peak. It is a long fun route. The second pitch crosses a couloir and upper pitches follow the ridge crest. There are short sections of harder technical moves some of which can be avoided. The entire route has great exposure.
Rock quality is good, but there is always some loose stuff on an alpine arete.

Location 

Descend 3rd-4th class down ledges on the sw face of rearing stallion toward lake in basin to the south. Follow the waterfall slab down to the lower lakes from there you can bushwhack back down the wildhorse creek and across to the trail. There are many game trails here and it helps to stay on them. For an easier but longer decent you can traverse into the upper basin along more game trails near timberline to the main trail.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack. Single rack to 3. Small nuts were very useful up high. Cams more useful lower.


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