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This is arguably one of the better hard 5.12s at the quarry in the opinion of everyone I know who has done it. Start on easy climbing up to a low crux going over the bulge, the climbing here is fairly sustained until completing the mantel. After a typical quarry style rest on a ledge, climb up several feet to a second shorter and more powerful crux. Easier climbing brings one up to the arete next to taboo. The final crux adds a lot of character to the route. The movement is fun and exposed. Unfortunately, the bolting is a bit odd in this section. An easier and thought provoking featured slab leads to the anchors.
Located between Violator and Original Sin.
Bolts, less than 20. A 70 m rope will just make it to the ledge. Lower to the anchor on Original Sin, when using a 60 m. There is an anchor bolt on ledge for the belayer. Double rap ring anchor.
By John Ericson
Nov 11, 2014
A four star route, if you give out stars as liberally as most on mountain project do.