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(m) Taboo Area
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Violator S 

Sky Pilot 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: John Ericson on Nov 10, 2014

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Description 

This is arguably one of the better hard 5.12s at the quarry. Start on easy climbing up to a low crux going over the bulge, the climbing here is fairly sustained until completing the mantel. After a typical quarry style rest on a ledge, climb up several feet to a second shorter and more powerful crux. Easier climbing brings one up to the arete next to taboo. The final crux adds a lot of character to the route. The movement is fun and exposed. Unfortunately, the bolting is a bit odd in this section. An easier and thought provoking featured slab leads to the anchors.

Location 

Located between Violator and Original Sin.

Protection 

Bolts, less than 20. A 70 m rope will just make it to the ledge. Lower to the anchor on Original Sin, when using a 60 m. There is an anchor bolt on ledge for the belayer. Double rap ring anchor.


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By John Ericson
From: USA
Nov 11, 2014

A four star route, if you give out stars as liberally as most on mountain project do.

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