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Sky King 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill Dockins & Kim Keating (September 1981)
Page Views: 114
Submitted By: Matt Wenger on Jun 25, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Sky King 5.11b

Description 

A hard start leads to some cool movement up a thin crack. After about 30', move into the crack 5' to the left (crux), then move right through the up-right leaning crack section for a few feet, and then up and left again. Although the gear looks thin, it is a safe lead on gear. Climb nearby route/Skyline P1 to set up TR anchor (3-4" gear). Ends on top of Skyline P1.

Location 

1st left leaning crack left of Skyline Start.

Protection 

Small gear; micro cams and small nuts, a few hand and finger sized pieces. Build an anchor on the step where crack finishes (to TR, 3-4" gear anchor) or continue up the 15' step to top of Skyline P1 and sling a boulder/clip the fixed anchor for Skyline chimney descent.

Rappel from rings to the south. 60m rope makes it.


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By Pat Dyess
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 26, 2017

Quite safe lead! No need for special gear either.

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