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Skullduggery 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 98'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Simon Tooley, J. Beekman
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Deanna Puttonen on Aug 25, 2014  with updates from Mark van Eijk

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Skullduggery Topo

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The gaping crack. The crux is first getting into the crack - a bolt protects here. The unmistakable gaping wide crack at Bughouse Heights. A low-angle, shallow crack with marginal protection grants access to a comfortable ledge below the offwidth. Yes, it really goes at 5.10-.

Location 

It is pretty hard to miss the large off-width crack at Bughouse Heights. It's the humongous crack on the trail up to pixie corner.

Protection 

Contrary to the guidebook description, this route is x-rated without at least one #6 and one #5 cam. The initial crack will take a 1" piece and something small (#2 c3). A bolt protects the first move into the squeeze. From here the crack runs from tipped-out #6 to #4. It is possible to place a #.75 to protect the final moves. Bolts with rap rings at the top


Photos of Skullduggery Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The fun upper crack
The fun upper crack

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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 8, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This crack is rad, but suggesting a standard rack puts you in a no-fall zone through quite a bit of strenuous climbing. Only fifteen feet up from the bolt can you even place a #5, and if you blew it you'd be having a bad day.

If you climb this without a #6 or Valley Giant I expect rope is only a decoration for you, or you think your ankles are in too few pieces.

Dope route though.
By Ryan Lynne
Mar 5, 2016

I found the crux to be the start of the off width after you clip the bolt. A #6 Camalot is just big enough for the start of the off width. If you are not comfortable with pushing the #6 up as you go, you may want a second #6.

The top of the crack where it narrows is really amazing and much easier.

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