|Type:||Trad, Aid, 12 pitches, 1200', Grade V|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]|
|FA:||Chuck Clance, Jeff Altenburg, and Steve Bosque, June 1984|
|Submitted By:||Andrew Klein on Sep 22, 2006|
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|Comments on Skull Queen||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Aaron S
Apr 24, 2007
The supertopo recommends bringing a large cam for the ow and last pitches but I would leave it at home. The ow pitch goes from a #4 camalot size to a full squeeze (too big for a cam) within a couple feet making it worthless. My buddy used it at the start of the last pitch but it didnt look necessary. The good news is that the ow pitch is pretty easy climbing and is probably just as easy in boots as climbing shoes.
I think this route is underrated in terms of quality and just fun climbing.
By Osprey Overhang
May 3, 2010
A fun route for moderate aid.
Expect several bolt/rivet ladders linking cracks. If the line was continuous it would be classic.
By Jake Dickerson
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2016
Just did this route this past weekend and it was alot of fun! A great first wall. The gear beta is pretty spot on, we did it with 1 set of RP's+offset nuts, 1 set of BD nuts, Triples in .3-.5, doubles in .75-4, one #5, 2 rivet hangers, and 2 cam hooks. It would have been nice to have some offset cams. If you don't mind leapfrogging rivet hangers the bolt ladder on P5 goes fast, I think there was a total of 6 bolts and usually 2-3 rivets between bolts. We fixed to P% on the first day and finished on the second.
Here are some updated pitch descriptions after P4 (kor roof).
P5 LOOSE BLOCK ALERT! The very first move right of the belay is off a loose block, i put a .3 in and saw it move, please be careful of parties below. I just reached up high and clipped a fixed nut, a few more small nuts leads to a rivet/ bolt ladder, pretty straight forward.
P6 Kinda dirty but there are penty of spots in the crack to get gear, the anchors are up and left past the trees. You may need to channel your inner childhood and climb trees up to the anchor.
P7 Only spot where you need the 4's and 5. if you are solid on squeeze chimneys you dont need the 5 and leave all the small gear at the belay and free this pitch at 5.8. The short chimney leads to a hand crack up and left to the next anchor, it takes 1-3 camalot and maybe a few finger sized pieces.
P8 All aid at C2. Start up the crack on the left, stand up on a rivet into a small crack requiring a few hook moves, trend right at the bolts, up a thin crack and back left to the anchor.
P9 A few bolts to a thin seam past a few fixed copperheads. trend right to a tension traverse to the final crack to the anchor. A blue totem cam is $$$ here.
P10 Prolly the trickiest aid of the climb. Start up the left crack (inobvious) to gain the main left facing corner with a few fixed nuts. Go up to a ledge up and left to the next crack and a few rivet heads to the next anchor.
P11 Splitter 5.10 crack.
Rap Beta: We rapped down South Face and it was really straight forward. The rap stations are to climbers left of skull queen.
We did this without any beak/hawks or alot of offsets. It was my first wall and pretty straightforward. It will possibly take longer than south face because of more aid.