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The first route on the formation. Climb a 5.10 crack to a sloping but commodious ledge. The business starts here. Climb a very steep crack out the right eye socket of the skull using the nose for feet. Extremely powerful underclings and liebacks, not much jamming. Down jump to clean.
One set of Friends up to #4 for the first pitch. The second and final pitch takes small wires and TCUs. A couple of fixed wires are currently in the crack.
From: Here and there.
Aug 8, 2014
What a cool find. Thanks for posting this. I worked this with Liz Grenard back in the early '90s: couldn't make more than 3 moves on the thing. Liz sorted the beginning and end but never linked it (that I know of) and thought it was going to be "pretty hard." I just remember thinking, "why on Earth are we up here?" Cool surprise to find out that, not only has it been sent, but done so by Mr. Caldwell.