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Skink's Lip 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002

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  • Description 

    This is a nice TR or heinous lead. Climb just left of Shiva's Dance and Monks in the Gym. This follows a couple thin, left-angling cracks and finishes on The Offset. It is less than vertical. It has that not-climbed-much feel. Skink's Lip is a nice climb but does not have much pro.

    Protection 

    Maybe tiny wires or Aliens, maybe not. TR is better for enjoying more routes.


    Comments on Skink's Lip Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jul 30, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This is a great toprope to do after shooting up Shiva's Dance (which is 10 ft to the R), although there would be a bit of a pendulum if you came off. Leading this would be as fast as toproping it, as there would be none of that pesky pro to put in...'cause it's just not there!

    The beginning has 2 cracks--a thin one (left) and a more flake-y one (right). The original FA intention, I assume, is to only use the thin one. Very cool, thoughtful moves. Stay in the crack until you HAVE to cut right onto the face...it's more fun that way.

    The bolts on the face immediately R of Skink's have ...been removed? ...were never there? That's a good detail to know, in case you wanted to locate it by them. This seems to be true of a few climbs in this area. Have fun!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 16, 2016
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

    Maybe you only climb the left crack, as per the comment above, but even eschewing the right one, there is still protection. The route is really no more so runout than 'The Offset' I don't think, and so it's probably 'R' not 'X'. In fact, I think the hardest move is closer to gear, and the crux shorter, though yeah, is a tiny bit harder.