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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dan & Sue McDevitt, 1991
Season: Winter/Spring/Fall
Page Views: 1,814
Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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powerful mantle is harder for those who are tall

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is a rare sport climb in the valley. It is sustained with two 10d cruxes and a couple of other 5.10 moves along the way. The crux is passing the second bolt. The shorter you are the harder it gets.


The boltline about 40 feet to the left of The Tube.



Photos of Skinheads Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: big or small dyno may be required for those who ar...
big or small dyno may be required for those who ar...
Rock Climbing Photo: The final steep bit before the anchors.
The final steep bit before the anchors.

Comments on Skinheads Add Comment
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By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Don't know if I'd call this a sport climb. Get's pretty run out...but the hard moves are really well protected.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jan 11, 2010

Crux is between the first few bolts and is well protected. The moves are hard, balancy and thin.

FYI, one of the anchor bolts at the anchor, that Supertopo says is, 80' from the ground has been chopped. You can end the route by continuing up and to the left at the angled ledge. Climbing the ledge is about 5.9, the anchor is about 110' from the ground and you may want some smaller gear anything from .3-.75 will work. The other option is to go up and to the right past 4 more bolts (5.10d) and finish at an anchor what will require a two rope rappel (or a stop at an intermediate anchor).

The Reid guide is more accurate.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 12, 2010

You can rap from the right anchor with a 70m rope.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Feb 21, 2010

Did this again and got it clean. 3 Distinct cruxes: Down low, in the middle and up high (assuming you go out to the right). Crux up high is definitely height dependent. Full value .10d.

70m rope will get you to the ground... barely.
By Tyler Williams
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

crux for me was the mantle at the third bolt. also, the boulder problem start is no joke (don't use the tree!). from the topo I thought it would ease to 5.8 the rest of the way but there are a number of 10b and 10c cruxes to come. it doesn't let up until you clip the anchors! can be TR'd with single 70m with ~5 ft to spare.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I felt the crux was after the second bolt. Reaching the sloppy hold out right was difficult and the moves don't stop for a few more. I felt there are no other cruxes anywhere as hard and would put the rest of the route at .10b (if you do the moves right).
By Phil Esra
Apr 15, 2013

Way reachy past the 2nd bolt. Got shut down at 5'6"--couldn't stick the dyno.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I think there's confusion about this route. There are two variations. The one listed in supertopo shows the right variation after the 4th bolt. This goes through the 5.8R terrain (and, yes, the anchors at 80-feet are gone). The other varition which is well bolted and has a number of 5.10 cruxes goes up straight (kind of left) above the small knobby roof. The left variation can barely be lowered/TRed with a 60 meter rope.
By T-rack
From: Merced, CA
Nov 5, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Did the dyno static, tough move. 5.8 part is more like 5.10- and suuuper run-out.

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