||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150', Grade II
|Original: ||A3 [details]|
|FA: ||Tim Wagner, 1994|
|Page Views: ||835|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Oct 5, 2006|
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A visionary route put up by Tim Wagner. This route starts to the right (north) of Tin Man
. Start with heads, some fixed, some not, then clip some machine bolts. The rivets consist of machine bolts hammered in narrow holes, held in by the threads mushing in the rock (El Capitan-style).
After the rivets, climb/traverse left (west) via fixed heads, hooks, pins, etc. The route ends with hooking to a bolt, followed by a pendulum to the anchor (shared with Batman
. This route would be extremely hard if the fixed gear was not there. With all the fixed stuff, it remains scary but not really difficult. There exists the potential to rip multiple pieces and end up on the ground.
This route faces east. It can be climbed in 1 or 2 pitches, solo or with a partner. An optional belay was added midway through the original single pitch.
"I remember getting the 2nd ascent of Skin Man with the late great Dave Anderson. While I was leading and finally getting to the first bolt, I remember thinking, that it was odd that the single 1/4" bolt Leeper hanger was clearly broken (split and I didn't think it would even hold a small fall...the bolt was good, but the hanger was not and I couldn't remove it) and placed purposely this way.
"With Dave's encouragement, I placed a second bolt right next to it. As it turned out, it was much to my later regret because I told Timmy about it immediately afterwards and he was upset in his quiet, unassuming way. He assured me by doing this, I had lowered the seriousness of the pitch and in effect changed the route. I felt bad afterwards and did not try to justify my actions to him anymore than explain our reasoning at the time...it always comes down to one's own ability to deal with fear, perhaps. Dave's and my thinking at the time was if one places a bolt it might as well be a good one? Then again, we left all of our heads fixed and he had not.
"Maybe the only time an A4+ pitch is an A4+ pitch is during the first ascent....? But that isn't always the way OTHER people think...just an added thought and some history to that line."
Two-rope rappel to the ground (from the Batman station at the end of the route).
Heads, hooks, pins (thin, shallow, sawed off, etc.)
This route is located approximately 300 yards northeast of the south face of Black Peeler Buttress.
The approach is arduous, with bushwhacking and 4th class climbing. Assume 50-60 minutes. Most of that time is spent getting from the south face to this east-facing route.
By James Garrett
Oct 7, 2006
Cool that you are doing these obscure aid routes...fun for sure. Do you really think Skin Man is still A4+? I would think A4+ is like miles of hooking with nothing left in place. The Hallucinagen has lots more of this I thought than Skin Man, but is rated only A2+ or maybe A3 these days with the lowered ratings.