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Seal Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Archaeopteryx T 
Choose Life S,TR 
Choose Muscle S 
East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 
East Face South Side T 
Gruffalo, The S 
I Am The Walrus S 
Jade Gate T 
Misbehaven T,TR 
Primate T,TR 
Sea of Joy S 
Shortcut (East Face) T 
Skin Flute S,TR 
Southwest Face T 
Supercell S 
Thunder Muscle S 

Skin Flute 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Peter Mortimer, Zach Barr (toprope/trad) first bolted ascent: Paul Glover, Steve Annecone, Mark Roth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,407
Submitted By: Pinklebear on May 8, 2002

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The first onsight! Star Pais.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a a bolted route on the south face of Seal Rock -- it's the first route you come to along the South Face and is the farthest east on the wall at present bolted. You'll find eight bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the lip.

This route is about 100 feet up the south face as you head west along the gully. It climbs the green wall in the heavily forested area and is about 60 feet tall. Look for an obvious, ribbed, flute-like feature up near the top, where you find an elegant crux.

This was originally (2002) done as a toproped, rehearsed "trad" lead (headpoint-style) but is now (2015) a safe and logical and excellent 8-bolt sport climb.

Protection 

Now 9 bolts to a double-bolt anchor.

In its former trad state (preserved for historical info only): RPs, #00 Metolius TCU, stoppers, two 1" pieces, and one 3" piece.


Photos of Skin Flute Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The new Skin Flute.
BETA PHOTO: The new Skin Flute.

Comments on Skin Flute Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sharon Sadleir Vaughan
Jul 22, 2002

Nice name Peter. Is it a phallic shaped formation?
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 10, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

As of today we can remove the X. This thing is now fully bolted.
8 bolts and a two bolt anchor

Huge thanks to the Flatiron Climbing Counsil and OSMP for allowing new bolts in the Flatirons and a special thanks to Matt for a great line and his blessing for the upgrade. It's already seeing traffic.
By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Oct 11, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

And a big thanks to Mark for supplying most of the hardware AND doing all of the drilling!
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Mark -- any idea if Primate is slated to be bolted; (or I'll defer to Matt)?
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Dan,
As of now there is no application for bolts, but there is talk. Of course it could only happen with Matt's blessing.
By Pinklebear
Oct 12, 2015

I know a few folks have expressed interest in giving Primate a makeover. I appreciate the spirit with which everyone is considering this. I don't pretend to have any special claim to these routes, having made the first ascent. That's why the FHRC process is in place -- so the community can decide. I do know that Primate has had another lead than mine, Matt Segal, also in headpoint style.

I've talked to a few folks, and Primate might make good sense as a "safe-enough" mixed route. Some of the gear is actually good, but much of it is terrible or only psychological, and bolts in those spots would be the only way to make it a viable lead for most people. It certainly would be a wonderful mixed/bolted pitch!

Happy climbing to all!
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

SF is a great addition to Seal. Feedback on the bolting: the runout between bolt #4 and #5 seems excessive; this can be avoided by simply lowering bolt #5 so it can be clipped from the good “incut” hold. This would certainly improve the overall quality of the route. Thanks.
By J-doozit
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 12, 2016

I was currently up there with my buddy for him to project Thundermuscle while I project my first 12b(ish) route for this one as well. I have left my Trango draws on the bolts, 'cause I plan on coming back next week to keep working it. So if anyone sees them on there, they are mine and are more then welcome to use them if need. Plus I noticed it was 9 bolts to the chains and not 8 like description say.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 30, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Yes, there are 9 bolts. On October 31st, 2015 we went up with intention to lower bolt #5 after Dan's comment. Lowering bolt #5 would have made an excessive runout after #5, so we just left it in and added one. Originally we thought that incut clipping hold might fall off, so we didn't want people pulling up rope to clip in case the hold blew, and without that hold, you wouldnt want to stop to clip there. The hold is solid though. You could probably safely skip bolts #1, 3, 5, and 9.
By J-doozit
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 6, 2016

Cool. Thanks for response. I didn't feel that runout for bolt five as I'm working the route. After doing that beginning awkward section, when you enter the 5.11- climbing, it's pretty chill for the "runout".