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BETA PHOTO: The climb, in the center of the photo. The first ...
There seems to be some confusion about SD. The route listed
on the upper tier is not SD. It may refer to one of Dan Hare's lines or one of Joe Desimones'. SD is the further right of two routes, both about 100 yards right of Cool Thing
on the lower tier. SD starts on very nice, almost chocolate-colored stone. Mantle up on a small ledge to clip the first bolt. The crux comes in the subsequent ten feet. After the fourth clip, the rock becomes sharper and more friable but climbs on decent edges. There is indeed a double bolt anchor at the top. These welded cold shuts, although solid enough, should probably be replaced with more durable gear.
Eight quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 6, 2009
Be careful on this one. The fifth bolt sounds like it's in a chunk of rock about to come out. The anchors are probably not long for this world and neither is most of the rock above the 3rd bolt. The top half of this climb is through the semi-permanent mud that runs between the lower and upper tiers of Golden Cliffs and after doing this climb you can understand why there are so few climbs through that band. I don't like to trash a climb that somebody obviously put some time and money in protecting, but if you venture on this thing, be careful and checkout the description of Uomama bin Rotten to see what you're in for, this climb ends in the same rotten rock.