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YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder in '97-'98
Page Views: 10,725
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (270)
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BETA PHOTO: Skimbleshanks. Start by stepping into the big hol...

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  • Description 

    Scramble up a ramp at the far left of the crag and begin below a very large pocket. Friction and jug haul up this well-protected route on amazing quartz crystals and finish on a comfy ledge. Drag a rope for the rappel or use a 60m rope for lowering, have your belayer tie a stopper knot to prevent you from falling past the starting ledge should your rope not reach. 14 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 105'.


    QDs only. Double bolt anchor at the top.

    Photos of Skimbleshanks Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1. Skimbleshanks, 8-. 2. Old Deuteronomy, 9. 3. Mu...
    BETA PHOTO: 1. Skimbleshanks, 8-. 2. Old Deuteronomy, 9. 3. Mu...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a final go before a storm runs through.
    Taking a final go before a storm runs through.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Irina Overeem turning the roof near the top of the...
    Irina Overeem turning the roof near the top of the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Loving it!
    Loving it!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nickie Kelly enjoying the slab moves on Skimblesha...
    Nickie Kelly enjoying the slab moves on Skimblesha...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route loosely follows the red line. I couldn't...
    The route loosely follows the red line. I couldn't...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The big hole at the first bolt.
    The big hole at the first bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting higher....
    Getting higher....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on Skimbleshanks.
    Matt on Skimbleshanks.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt stepping into pod at the start.
    Matt stepping into pod at the start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris nearing the top.
    Chris nearing the top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising up Skimbleshanks.
    Cruising up Skimbleshanks.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the 3rd bolt.
    At the 3rd bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting off on Skimbleshanks.
    Starting off on Skimbleshanks.

    Comments on Skimbleshanks Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2014
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 27, 2001

    Bit of warning: about two weeks ago, Mark Rolofson informed that bolt three on this route had been cut but not removed. I replaced this hanger on 7/26/2001. The hanger was not cut, it had been shot through with a .22 caliber rifle. So the warning here is that some of the folks shooting from across the creek also shoot at the climbing routes. Watch out, this hanger would never have held a fall.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 5, 2001

    I just did this route as a warm up yesterday and upon reaching the anchor, I noticed that the left hand bolt has lost rock around its left side. There is about 1 inch of the shaft exposed. I don't know if the rock was broken off by a bullet, hammer or by itself. Nevertheless, it should be inspected by the folks who know the area the best. Just thought you should know.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 6, 2001

    I'll try to get this repaired ASAP. When we ran the route a week ago to replace the shot hanger, I did not (sic) notice anything wrong at the top. The anchor has always been bomb proof, so perhaps more vandalism has been afoot.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 7, 2001

    Well, we have a problem here. On 8/7/01 Nevada Montagu and I replaced this anchor. Like the third bolt on this route, the anchor on the left side had been shot. The bullet track is evident on the bottom side of the hanger, the rock surrounding the bolt blown completely away. This bolt would have possible held body weight, possibly not. Once again, the bullet trajectory suggests, to my novice eye, being fired on the horrizontal (line up the bullet track on the hanger with the impact site on the rock). A good vantage point would be from across the creek, on the water pipe line, and this is what the alignment points to. The pipe line is 400 yards from impact and on the level. Completely ripping through a stainless steel hanger from 400 yards would indicate a rifle with .223 or .222 power, and this is consistent with the hole in the hanger from the the third clip. This would indicate a high powered hunting rifle with telescopic sighting since the hangers are completely invisible from even much shorter distances. Importantly, Catslab is privately owned. The owner lives in New York and has slated the area for a 24 unit housing development; he would be only too happy to shut down the climbing. Furthermore, there is a resident squatter living around the bend from Catslab, who spent considerable time watching us climb, he may or may not be suspect. Climbers need to be aware that hangers and anchors may be unsound on any route on Catslab. We also need to address the problem of shooting at the protection system for these, and perhaps other, climbing routes. However, simply running to the police is likely to get the crag shut down permanently. If you have a good idea that might help solve this problem, send it in.
    By Joshua Lewis
    Mar 18, 2002

    Does anyone know what the regulations are for shooting weapons in the canyon? --In general. I understand that the area near Catslab is privately owned--so open season I guess; but I'm wondering about the meander on the North side of Tunnel 6 and the parking area for the Wall of the 90's. I've heard many shots near tunnel 6 and seen a bunch of spent shotgun shells and bullet casings. Also, a couple weekends ago I was on Hot Stuff when a couple archers showed up and spent a good hour shooting foam targets with compound bows right in the parking area--shooting towards the base of the rock. They seemed skilled and I didn't think it possible for a deflected arrow to reach us, high above, but still: a little unsettling.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 19, 2002

    You only have to be 50 feet from the center line of the road to shoot a firearm, or weapon. Not very far huh. Brett Boyd
    By Legs Magillicutty
    From: Durango
    Jun 14, 2002

    All the bolts were good and the route is excellent. I think the 5.8 grade is a little stiff though. Careful with a 60m rope on the rap down. If you stay to the left you should be fine. . .but it was close! I didn't get shot, nor did I fall. But there were some lively little billies drinking beer by the "No Trespassing" signs.
    By Matt Chan
    From: Boulder
    Jan 18, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Very fun moves throughout the climb. Make sure to bring a long sling for the 2nd(?) to last bolt on the far right. Knot your ends if rapping w/ a 60m rope.
    By Kyle Turner
    From: Brighton, CO
    May 3, 2004
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    Long slabby climb with some good positive holds on the way up. Be careful pulling on the quartz. Good ledge on the left of the anchors to rig the rappel. Use two ropes.
    By Jay Hippel
    From: Denver, CO
    Jul 17, 2005
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    Excellent route, especially for first time leaders. Very well protected and do-able with a 60m. Just tie a knot on the end.
    By Nathaniel Osenga
    Jul 22, 2008

    I agree with all the above comments. Last climbed here 7/21/08 and most of the routes seem in good condition. No one shot at us nor was their evidence of neglect to the hangers or anchors. Good line, some jugs, some crimps, mini-roof, it's got it all.
    By Electrikat
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 26, 2010
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

    Just climbed this last Friday...nothing saying it was closed or anything blocking the trail... maybe we were unknowingly trespassing?
    By Teigon S.
    May 30, 2011

    Just climbed this route the other day, and it was definitely fun. However, there were some white x's on some of the key holds going over the roof, so I think with that being said, it bumps it up to at least a 9. Anchors at the top look weathered, and the left one was loose. Someone might wanna get on that....
    By Matt Powers
    From: Madison, VA
    Jul 16, 2011
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    I just climbed it today, seemed like there were plenty of good holds on the roof. Great climb though; cool features all the way.
    By MilkyTech
    Jul 21, 2011
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Tough but fun. At least 5.8 and a tough one at that. Long route uses every inch of a 60m rope. In-fact belayer may have to climb up a step so climber can get to lowest jug and untie and downclimb last step. 70m rope is ideal. TIE THE END!
    By Erik Hatlestad
    Apr 3, 2012

    Climbed this two weeks ago. The lead was harder than a 5.8, but top roped it is a 5.8. 70m rope played it safe, it was a great route that was fun for everyone. Recommended climb if you're at Cat Slab!
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Mar 30, 2013

    Great and varied climbing, could just be the best line on the wall.
    By Jon Sinclair
    From: Lafayette, CO
    Aug 27, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This is an excellent climb and very well protected. Given Clear Creek ratings, it's definitely a 5.8... doesn't rate a 9. The crux comes in the first half of the climb and ends with a juggy roof that feels very positive. This climb alone makes the trip to Cat Slab worth the effort.
    By Kevin Heckeler
    From: Upstate New York
    Sep 23, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I've climbed 5.5 roofs at the Gunks harder than this roof. It's not even a true roof pull, it's a traverse.

    The lower crux can be skirted to the left at 5.7, but going straight up the bolt line is a thin, slabby 5.8.
    By ChefMattThaner
    From: Lakewood, co
    Oct 13, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Easier lines can be had be going a little left or right on this route. If you stay on the bolt line, it's a stiff, thin 5.8. The start is much easier if you find the low right side crimp just after pulling the roof.
    By Colin Thompson
    From: Seattle, WA
    Nov 4, 2013

    Be careful with your gear and smaller items as there is a ~4" crack at the base of the route. It is probably 15' deep and it ate my guidebook! Guaranteed I wasn't the first victim of the crack....
    By Jeremy C
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 20, 2014
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    One of the best 5.8s in the canyon.
    By Jason Platt
    Jun 17, 2014

    This line is honestly one of the best moderates in the canyon. It has some of everything. The first half is a fun slab which includes the crux. Then you reach a headwall that leads up to a small roof. Once over the roof, you pull onto an arete that soars above the canyon. The top is just super fun, jug hauling. Once at the top of this long climb, remember to check out that view.

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