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New Wave Wall
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Change in Luck S 
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Wavey Gravy S 

Skidmark 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ron Farrel, Eric Fazio-Rhicard 1990
Season: Morning shade
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on May 13, 2014

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Description 

This route is essentially two boulder problems down low separated by a good rest (one powerful, one off-balance and technical). After this, easier climbing on incut holds leads through a 20-25 foot runout onto a ledge, with a bolt high above it that will be very difficult for someone short to clip if the draw isn't already hung. Take a deep breath and get through it- the climbing to the ledge and pulling onto it isn't hard and you can get several good, restful stances. After you are standing on the ledge and make the hard clip, find your way through the confusing last few feet to clip the chains (which would also be hard to clip for anyone short).

Location 

Between Holey Moley and Change in Luck.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.


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