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Skeletonic 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,522
Submitted By: Alpine Carl on Apr 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Quinn Lynch working through the crux.

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The crux is at the top two bolts, bit spooky and run-out to the chains. An excellent route all the same, even more so in the afternoon, when it is in the shade.

    However, this route is much more exciting if you don't have a guidebook and start up it because it "looks cool"....

    I think this is the best "sport" route on Potash Road.

    Location 

    In RIGHT facing corner to left of Static Cling, starts directly under tree. Rappel.

    Protection 

    Four bolts, but you'll need gear to 1 Camalot, emphasis small stuff. Fixed anchors at top with rings; 50 meter rope fine.


    Photos of Skeletonic Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Negotiating the sandy feet
    Negotiating the sandy feet
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the Top-Out on Skeletonic
    Nearing the Top-Out on Skeletonic
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moments before airing it out.
    Moments before airing it out.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Catching some air near the top of Skeletonic
    Catching some air near the top of Skeletonic
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben rapping "Skeletonic."  It starts rig...
    Ben rapping "Skeletonic." It starts rig...

    Comments on Skeletonic Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Apr 14, 2007

    Great description Carl. Clear and concise. I found myself on this route last year by mistake. I was told it was 10a ish. Half way up I knew it wasn't. Then, the same guy that told me it was 10ish appologized. He was looking at a different route in the guide. At this time I had never even toproped an 11, let alone lead one. To my surprise I made it through the crux clean. I blew it near the top on the sandy unprotectible yet easier terrain and took a 15 footer on my last piece (.5 camalot) that I placed a few feet above the last bolt. Some may find this placement unnecessary but I didn't mind having it. Someone caught a snap shot of my fall. See photo.
    By Dane Casterson
    From: Boulder
    Apr 16, 2007

    Did this route a year ago for the first time and was knocked unconscious from the whip I took after the last bolt. Did it again over the weekend and it is definitely a great route. Comforting to the ego to finally see that its more than 5.10! In my opinion its the best bolted route on Potash. Also, I did it without gear and it thought it was protected well enough with just the bolts other than at the very top where you cant get gear anyway.
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Jan 20, 2008

    Dane, isn't it ironic to say this route is well protected with just the bolts yet you were knocked unconsious from a fall on this very same route. You must have really hit your head hard. And, I really don't believe there is gear above the last bolt except for two feet about the last bolt. That's all.
    By Sam Feuerborn
    Nov 29, 2009
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

    Awesome climb for sure. its funny that the description should say something about hopping on it because it looks cool because that's exactly what i did and loved it. way harder than i anticipated and than i usually lead but still suuuuppppeeeerrr fun. wanna go back and lead it clean. would definitely recommend this route!
    By Dane Casterson
    From: Boulder
    Mar 17, 2011

    Greg, I was desperate at the top and stepped over the rope causing me to flip when i fell. I did this route in my second year climbing when i was stronger than i was smart. Went back again recently and i think the PG13 rating is warranted.
    By Dave Alie
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 20, 2014
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    I was another who got on this route after being assured it was 10a. Spoiler alert: it's not. I had plenty of time to piece this revelation together on my long way down from a fall near the top. While the bolts are good and protect the meat of the hard climbing, I definitely would not recommend treating this like a sport route. There are a couple committing, non-trivial moves before the cracks disappear, and the three central bolts arrive, that you definitely would not want to fall from if you had no gear below you. A small handful of cams to BD#1 should do you fine for supplemental gear, with a yellow and/or blue TCU (or similar) working nicely for the optional (recommended) top placement above the last bolt. Yes, it's only a couple feet above the bolt, and it's not the easiest piece to place, but the cams are good and it sure beats taking massive wingers on fixed hardware in soft sandstone! I wouldn't say it's PG-13 as fall is relatively clean and the top can be spooky but the moves to the chains are substantially easier than the crux sequence. My favorite route at Potash thus far!
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

    One of THE best routes on wall street. You only need about 3 cams. Don't blow it going over the top or you will be going for a long ride. I thought the top was the most treacherous.

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