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"Size Matters: A Gear Comparison"
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Feb 7, 2011
This excellent article was posted by PellucidWombat over at SummitPost.

summitpost.org/size-matters-a-...

A lot of climbers seem to scoff at this type of quantitative analysis and prefer to go on the subjective "feel" of gear, but I really enjoyed this writeup.
Tyler Wick
From Bishop, CA
Joined Oct 8, 2010
50 points
Feb 7, 2011
Thats a great qualitative review. Thanks for sharing. Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
1,645 points
Feb 7, 2011
this is really cool. i'd love to see all those cam ranges on the same chart so you can more easily compare sizes across brands. Justin Brunson
From Broomfield CO
Joined Jun 16, 2010
2,153 points
Feb 7, 2011
Justin Brunson wrote:
this is really cool. i'd love to see all those cam ranges on the same chart so you can more easily compare sizes across brands.

clydesoles.com/Front/Camgraph....

That article was nuts. Hard to believe that crunching all that data and making all those cute charts would be helpful to someone who is trying to learn crack/gear sizes, but I guess we're all wired different.
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,415 points
Feb 7, 2011
Tyler Wick wrote:
This excellent article was posted by PellucidWombat over at SummitPost. summitpost.org/size-matters-a-... A lot of climbers seem to scoff at this type of quantitative analysis and prefer to go on the subjective "feel" of gear, but I really enjoyed this writeup.


edit: works fine now, weird. That dude had a LOT of time on his hands!
NickinCO Mardi
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
40 points
Feb 7, 2011
If you have the right graphing program, charts like that can be spit out in no time at all. Bill M
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jun 30, 2010
101 points
Feb 7, 2011
Definitely cool to see that Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Joined Feb 22, 2010
1,160 points
Feb 8, 2011
All that stuff is great. In the end though, it just confirms what I've kinda know all along...

Metolius needs to make a 1.5 and 3. TCU/Mastercam! Least amount of overlap of any cams in that range. A PITA if you ask me. CCH had their overlaps more dialed in...
mattm
From TX
Joined Jun 2, 2006
550 points
Feb 8, 2011
The biggest problem with the entire analysis is that he says smearing only applies for cracks up to 4". He lost all credibility there. Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
2,670 points


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