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Six Fingered Man 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Gillett, 2001
Season: Good sun in the winter!
Page Views: 248
Submitted By: JFM on Jan 18, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: You can see the route just on the right margin of ...

Description 

Start in the lichen-y corner, and stem/pull past two bolts into a pod. Place a medium nut or cam (or not?), and pull into the dihedral. Use the finger pockets to move past two more bolts. Moving through and out of the dihedral is the crux of the route. Clip a final bolt once you're out, and cruise to the anchor chains.

Location 

It is on the smaller buttress just to the right of the gully, adjacent to the main formation. This is the only bolted route on this piece of rock.

Protection 

Five bolts with chain-anchors. A short section after the second bolt could use a medium nut or cam (~1 inch) to make getting into the dihedral a bit more secure (i.e., to remove the PG-13 rating).

Watch for some crumbly sections of rock down low. Everything else seems pretty solid.


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