REI Community
Left Hand Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Feels Like Someone Else T,S 
Freelance Tramps (Variation) S 
Guanica S 
Limbomaniac T,S 
Party's Over, The T 
Pindering to the Masses S 
Resume Builder S 
Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat T 
Susey's Groovy T 
Unemployment Line S 

Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Kristina Bergdahl-Martel, Nick Martel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: NickMartel on Jan 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: pretty much the whole route; foreshortened, with t...

Description 

Climbs intermittent crack up blocky vertical face. Starts with some jamming, to slightly overhanging sidepull moves, to thin fingers lieback crack, to face move, to more crack, to reachy jug haul finish. Though vertical the blocky/bulgy nature makes it pumpy.

Climb finger/hand/fist crack to ledge at 12’. Clip 1st bolt and make crux sidepull move to gain finger crack. Climb finger crack to top of pillar. Clip 2ed bolt, reach left to a sidepull then up to where crack continues. Top crack out and climb through reachy section on perfect jugs to chains.

Location 

Starts in corner just to the right of the “Guanica” chimney but still left of the wall of 7’s and 8’s at lefthand wall.

Protection 

2 bolts and gear to fists, chains...
gear beta in comments section below…


Comments on Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat Add Comment
Show which comments
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 8, 2014

GEAR BETA...

We used the following gear in this order from bottom to top:
Purple #8 Metolius cam: in starting hand/fist crack.
Black #5 Metolius cam: in same crack just before ledge.
Bolt
Bolt
Orange #3 or Red #4 Metolius cam: in second section of finger/crack, pray the rock holds.
Blue #9 BD nut: in pocket constriction thing above 2ed section of finger crack just after first jugs.
Chains.
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 8, 2014

The hope is that the upper of the 2 bolts will keep you off the ledge even if the rock that the red #3/orange #4 cam is placed in were to blow, which is somewhere between possible and likely, however this has not been tested thus the PG13...

You can also rap to the chains from the anchors of "Guanica" if you want to run a TR lap on it...

Be Safe and Enjoy!!!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About