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Echo Cove - South Face
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Sitting Here in Limbo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Rhoads, Kellie Rhoads & Mike Silitch, 1991
Page Views: 2,127
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Favorite move.


This route lies on the right-most (east) solid buttress of the South Face of the Echo Cove Rocks. It is approached via a few slab moves to a small ledge, and begins just left of Out on a Limb and just right of a scaley wide crack.Climb this line of bolts on contoured face to the top of the buttress. The crux is somewhere near the middle of the route and is on small holds.

The belay up top is well set with large cams and/or hexes and small tricams. There are other possibilities too.

To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and the back West toward the base.


5 bolts, gear to 3" for an anchor

Photos of Sitting Here in Limbo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sitting Here in Limbo (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Sitting Here in Limbo (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: knee-bar
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the thin holds.
Working the thin holds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary working out the sequence up high.
Mary working out the sequence up high.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary after pulling the bouldery start.  Now for th...
Mary after pulling the bouldery start. Now for th...
Rock Climbing Photo: First clip on SHIL
First clip on SHIL

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By Shano
Jan 21, 2003

If someone wanted to go to the trouble of drilling this route, why couldn't they throw in two more rap rings/hangers for the anchor? No big deal - I guess I'm just spoiled by the bolted routes in my area :') BTW - as of Jan '03 the bottom clip was a spinner. Hang on !
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 22, 2003

AZ question I have given some consideration. Perhaps it is beacuse there are previous routes here with walkoffs that are required for the descent and that adding an anchor nearby changes the nature of the previous route? Maybe to keep the routes from constantly haveing a TR hanging on them? I dunno, but I'd like to.There are almost always arguements that can be had on either side of an issue when someone wants to rationalize their convienent point of view, whatever that may be.
By Murf
Jan 23, 2003

You guys are so right! All the popular routes should have ORG style bolts at the top. Clip and lower!

Yeah, you guessed it, I'm one of "those guys", willing to talk about, and chop convience anchors. Why aren't more of the anchors gone you ask? Well, I might not know about them, or I might have some modicum of moderation.
By Murf
Jan 23, 2003

And continues, and continues.... for the last 20 ( or is it 30 ) years and more.
By Shano
Feb 7, 2003

Wow - didn't realize I'd be opening a can of worms with that one. Thanks for the responses though. Very different set of politics which occurs in our beloved sport...The reason I originally asked though was that it was getting dark by the time we got three people up top and the walk off was a little sketchy in the dark. Our own fault for being up there that late but it did seem odd that with all the hangers the FA would have put in a rap anchor. As for the ethics, I'll let "those others" debate it. I'm just one of those weekend warriors that goes out and has fun on all the routes I can get my grubby scabby hands on.
By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 20, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Anyway, a fun route.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Definitely solid 5.9 and fun for the grade. I think I remember the crux being the final move at the top.
By Chris Asencio
From: Hesperia, CA
Jan 22, 2012

Really fun route. Had some wind and dirt in the eyes, but still worth the effort. Thought it was sport till the top out, lol.
By Dave Chapman
From: The LBC
Jan 23, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Cool route, which never used to have a line considering its well bolted and so close to the road. Very balancy. While your up there toprope the .10c to the right, also a fun one.
By Kevin Mokracek
From: Burbank
Dec 15, 2013

I skipped the first bolt and just slung a horn slightly up and to the left of the first bolt. The first bolt is in kind of a funky spot.

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