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Chocoholic T 
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Sirloin Tips 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on May 16, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Sirloin Tips (5.12b). Very foreshortened. The firs...

Description 

Once a nice 5.11c pitch (Apr, 1999), the key hold pulled off after the FA and it remained unclimbed for 17 years until 2016.

Stick clip, then move up the face to an overlap. Make a super hard move over this (crux) to get established on the face above. Go up this (5.9 PG) to a fixed anchor shared with the route to the left.

Location 

Left of Chocoholic is a broken, left-leaning chimney. Begin on the clean, black face just left of the chimney.

Protection 

Bolts at the bottom (where the crux is), then sparse gear after that. 2-bolt anchor.


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