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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Sirens of Titan T 
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Sirens of Titan 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria and Pat Ament
Page Views: 2,120
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Nov 22, 2001

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Thor jamin, out

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  • Description 

    Start as for Prince of Darkness. This is the right-angling crack on the top buttress of the West Ridge. Scramble up to the base of the crack, place one or two big pieces and pull up into the crack. Follow the crack to the arete and then up to a belay ledge. Be careful setting up the belay as the blocks are big but detached. Walk off towards the gully.

    Protection 

    Camalots (1, 2, 3, 3.5 and 4) plus a few nuts. Extra #2 and 0.75 Camalots for belay.


    Photos of Sirens of Titan Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Zack D on 'Sirens of Titan' - 4/27/07
    Zack D on 'Sirens of Titan' - 4/27/07

    Comments on Sirens of Titan Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 21, 2002

    Surprising pump for just a 5.9, perhaps better bigger crack technique.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 21, 2002

    This diagonal crack is a real arm pump out as footholds are hard to come by. Harder for the leader, too, as they have to stop and fiddle with pro (follower can usually just yank-n-go).
    By Sergio P
    From: Idaho Springs, CO
    Jun 1, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    With a double runner at the far right roof you can link P1 and P2. Easy walk off.
    By pfwein
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 18, 2009

    If you sprint it, feels pretty easy for grade, if you go slow, you may get torched.

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