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Sir Edmond Drillary 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mr. Ed Esmond, August 1998
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: James Otey on May 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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unknown climber pulling the lip of Sir Edmond Dril...


Residing on the far left of Orange Crush, Sir Edmond Drillary starts on the large boulder left of Orangahang. Stick clip from here, as a fall would certainly not be in your best interest.

Start left of the first bolt, eventually reaching a small roof. Traverse slightly right, skirting the roof. After some pumpy moves on decent holds, you will be able to gain a rest in the corner. From here, the route traverses out left and eventually up were the chains will be waiting for you.

Though the moves can be a little pumpy near the bottom, the route is short and the rests are solid if you can get them just right. Not a classic, but surely worth your time.


Far left of Orange Crush, starting on the huge boulder above and to the left of Orangahang. Approach from either the main trail at the second parking lot, or head up and right from Bonsai.


5 bolts to LO.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 15, 2008

this one seems likely to eat your rope... the rope runs right over the edge of the roof... that wouldnt happen if you linked it in to the orangahang finish... if i do the route again i might try that...
By Mike Robinson
From: Worcester, MA
Jul 20, 2011

Good Route, worth doing, can be a great warm up for Orang.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 21, 2011

First ascentionist - Sir Ed Esmond, August 1998

This route seems to be getting much better with traffic. When he first put it up, it was " Ooh, ow, ow, how, wow, ow "
By Lundy Bancroft
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'm not sure what you mean about "skirting the roof". After clipping the bolt in the roof, you traverse under the roof for just a few moves until the little notch, and that's where you pull it. If you move too far right before pulling the roof, you'll find that once you're up and over it the next bolt is too far to your left (this happened to a friend of mine). This is a very cool climb by the way, underrated.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 13, 2015

I think this is a better route than it gets credit for, however it is far overshadowed by all the other great routes around. The bolt placements on this feel a little wonky to clip vs how it climbs, probably better to have someone second it for cleaning as well.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
May 23, 2016

Wait a minute Eli . . . Did you say there's something "wonky" on an Ed Esmond route? Impossible! Never!
By Franck Vee
Sep 5, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I found it ok but not outstanding. It's essentially a roped boulder problem - it really has about 12 moves until you pull the roof and then it's pretty much over.

Felt stiff for 11a, but then bouldering isn't my forte and I'm only ok in steep steep stuff like that, so it's probably just a style thing.

The moves it does have however are fun. Even about the roof - the moves are easy but interesting.

Cleaning that is a bit of a bitch - probably want to clean on the second...
By S. Neoh
Sep 5, 2017
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Agree with above post! Def get a second to follow and clean the gear off this route. Real PITA to clean on lower. Not only that, if memory serves, rope abrasion is also an issue when down cleaning.

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