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Sir Bors Dream  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]
FA: Kurt Winkler and Bunny Goodspeed July, 1989
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Sir Bors Dream - Pitch 2 (5.7+ to 5.8) as climbed ...

Description 

Sir Bors Dream 5.7(+) R / X? FA by Kurt Winkler and Bunny “No Bolts Please!” Goodspeed July, 1989.

START - At an 8-10ft wide, white-gold streak of rock, between two areas of lichened rock, and about 20-25 feet right of Merlin and a few feet right of Percival's Quest. Bring a good spotter, or better a couple of mattresses!!

If you would like to lead this climb and feel the need to place a bolt, please respect the wishes of the first ascent party and refrain from doing so. P1 of this climb may be top roped safely by running a directional from the P1 belay bolts of Percival's Quest with a slight directional at the placement 40-50ft up.

P1 – Climb the left side of the white streak without protection ( 5.7 R or X depending on how you feel about a ground-fall from 20+ feet) and continue up easily. FORGET the small flake on the right at 25-30ft NO PRO THERE, but don't miss the small, horizontal flake about 40-45 feet up, which will probably be at your feet before you see it! (Yellow Alien-sized cam or Tricam.) Continue up and slightly right to belay at a small pine tree with an interesting burl in its root system. 150ft 5.7 R/X.

P2 (2013) Step right and up, passing to the left of a large pine tree (with very old rap anchor, K. Winkler stated this was the probably end of the climb on the first ascent). Diagonally up the slab [5.7+ to 5.8] (v. small and large [black webbed] tri-cams very useful, as is a wire brush) to the small overlap; step over this [5.6-5.7] and up to the trees above. 100ft 5.7+ to 5.8

Location 

START - At a white streak of rock, between two areas of lichened rock, and about 20-25 feet right of Merlin (i.e. a few feet right of Merlin’s belay. Bring a good spotter, or better a couple of mattresses!!

Protection 

R/X what can we say? See description for P1. On the "2013 P2", have a med to large TriCam ! plus some small wires and a usual rack of 0.5 , 0.75, #1 Camalor-sized cams.


Photos of Sir Bors Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Opening moves of Sir Bors Dream
BETA PHOTO: Opening moves of Sir Bors Dream
Rock Climbing Photo: Sir Bors Dream-Top of P1, looking at P2 (slab abov...
BETA PHOTO: Sir Bors Dream-Top of P1, looking at P2 (slab abov...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope lies on Sir Bor's Dream.  The golden slab of ...
BETA PHOTO: Rope lies on Sir Bor's Dream. The golden slab of ...

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